Bright Switch/Cap Wiring

[JSpina911]

Hi all...Would someone be nice enough to draw a diagram for me?

I have a 500 pf.treble cap mounted on the pcb of my amp and I want to add a spst switch that would allow me to add another 150 pf. cap in parallel.

I want 500 pf.stock value and then 650 pf.with the switch engaged..

I've just never seemed to grasp how to wire a switch into circuits...

Much appreciated all.

[g1]

Here's a quicky as I don't have any fancy schematic programs.
Original cap is the bottom one.

[Enzo]

Works for me.

[JSpina911]

Here's a quicky as I don't have any fancy schematic programs.
Original cap is the bottom one.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]40381[/ATTACH]

Thank you...So simple but I'm an idiot....LOL

[loudthud]

It's always nice to have a place to join a wire and a component. The attached schematic shows how you can remove the 500pF cap from the PCB so there is a place to solder wires. A SPDT switch is used to give you an extra terminal and both caps mount on the switch. This also makes it easier to change one or both caps without having to remove the PCB.

[JSpina911]

It's always nice to have a place to join a wire and a component. The attached schematic shows how you can remove the 500pF cap from the PCB so there is a place to solder wires. A SPDT switch is used to give you an extra terminal and both caps mount on the switch. This also makes it easier to change one or both caps without having to remove the PCB.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]40382[/ATTACH]

Thanks again for your help pal...I was trying to keep from lifting the pcb again if possible,but if I have to....I will..

Having the caps on the switch is way better though.

[JSpina911]

It's always nice to have a place to join a wire and a component. The attached schematic shows how you can remove the 500pF cap from the PCB so there is a place to solder wires. A SPDT switch is used to give you an extra terminal and both caps mount on the switch. This also makes it easier to change one or both caps without having to remove the PCB.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]40382[/ATTACH]

The bright switch seems to work but is very subtle.I may need to raise that 150 pf up to say 220 pf so I can notice a difference on the switch?

Seems like it adds a bit more mids and a slight presence?

[eschertron]

The difference between 500p and 650p is truly not that great. A factor of 2 (500p to 1n) will be obvious, some tweaking of the value will be required if you have a target tone in mind. I've seen designs with a rotary switch, so that 4 or more options are available on the fly. Usually reserved for experimental rigs!

If the 150p comes out, you may want to replace it with a couple leads with alligator clips (assuming you don't have HV in that part of the circuit!) so you can find the value that you want at your leisure. Then put it in permanently.

[JSpina911]

The difference between 500p and 650p is truly not that great. A factor of 2 (500p to 1n) will be obvious, some tweaking of the value will be required if you have a target tone in mind. I've seen designs with a rotary switch, so that 4 or more options are available on the fly. Usually reserved for experimental rigs!

If the 150p comes out, you may want to replace it with a couple leads with alligator clips (assuming you don't have HV in that part of the circuit!) so you can find the value that you want at your leisure. Then put it in permanently.

Yes and agreed....I was kinda leaning towards another 500 pf which would give me a .001 value.

I do have a capacitor substitution box that I can alligator clip across the stock 500 pf. and I can see what I Like.

I also know that as we go higher on the treble cap values,that it starts affecting the mids some.

I def want to hear a difference upon switching in that second cap!

Thanks again all for helping me with this.