Measure AC volts at points A,B, and C of your drawing.
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200S Sunn
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Originally posted by Valvehead View PostMy DMM is rated for 600vdc
The meter needs to able to read a low ACV on top of a high DCV in AC mode.
Some cheaper DMMs don't block DCV in ACV mode. Those won't work here.
i can get a digital scope with a 10x , but i will need help with how to set it
With a scope you should use a 100x probe as a 10x probe doesn't attenuate DCV.Last edited by Helmholtz; 02-29-2024, 01:20 PM.- Own Opinions Only -
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Ok , i have a china $35 mini scope here with a 10x probe. can i try this? If i damage it , no worries. I was looking at getting a Hantek pc based scope soon.
This one has 3 adjustments -
V/DIV 5mv - 20v
SEC/DIV = 0.1ms - 50ms
Trigger = auto/ norm / Sing
sorry - im new to O scopes !
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Originally posted by loudthud View PostAddendum: It's possible to add a bleeder resistor across the last B+ filter cap in the preamp to limit the Voltage along the filter string. You'll have to experiment with the value, or do the math.
The 11.73mA at 440V means just over 5W dissipation in the zeners, so 3x150V 3W zeners in series should be just about perfect, and land close to 440V.
This method would avoid changing operating voltages like adding a bleeder across the node C filter cap would do.
Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostWith a scope you should use a 100x probe as a 10x probe doesn't attenuate DCV.
If a scope reads OL in AC coupled mode though, it will not attenuate DC in that mode. Very important to know your equipment well when doing high voltage measurements!
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Bear with me here.....lots of testing tonight..
if I pull V1 , the hum doesn't change....if I pull the wire off the wiper of the Treble pot ....no hum !!
So... I went and pulled every wire and component from the circuit .. from the Treble pot , and before it and back to V1.. 1 at a time . 1 leg or wire at a time...all of it between v1 ..the switches..and to Treble . All grounds re checked .
The hum is still there !! If I pull the wire off the Treble wiper --- no hum !!
Am I completely wrong...and certifiably insane.........could it be the treble pot itself ???????
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The wiper of the Treble pot goes to pin 8 of the 6AN8. Check that there is a 1 Meg resistor from pin 8 to ground. Is there an DC Voltage on that wire from the Treble pot ?WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !
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Question that may be a bit of a flyer, but perhaps helpful: If you probe between ground at different points in the circuit, do you easily get very low resistance (less than an ohm) or do you find that you have to really push the probes down hard into the metal? I am working on a Sunn 100S that has a nasty 120Hz buzz, in a slighty different location, that reminds me of a ground loop. I have to push probe tips down very hard to get continuity between the grounds, and am wondering if this metal chassis has an oxidation layer that essentially creates ground loops. I was curious if you see something similar on yours. To be clear, not trying to inject my problem here, and we should keep the focus on the OP's 200S.
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There can be issues with terminal strips that are riveted to the chassis. If there is a ground connection relying on one of those rivets, get out your big soldering iron and solder them to the chassis. Also squirt some De-Oxit on the input jacks and tighten the nuts very tight.WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !
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Originally posted by glebert View PostQuestion that may be a bit of a flyer, but perhaps helpful: If you probe between ground at different points in the circuit, do you easily get very low resistance (less than an ohm) or do you find that you have to really push the probes down hard into the metal? I am working on a Sunn 100S that has a nasty 120Hz buzz, in a slighty different location, that reminds me of a ground loop. I have to push probe tips down very hard to get continuity between the grounds, and am wondering if this metal chassis has an oxidation layer that essentially creates ground loops. I was curious if you see something similar on yours. To be clear, not trying to inject my problem here, and we should keep the focus on the OP's 200S.
But anything going to chassis ground I cleaned with a dremel
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Originally posted by loudthud View PostThere can be issues with terminal strips that are riveted to the chassis. If there is a ground connection relying on one of those rivets, get out your big soldering iron and solder them to the chassis. Also squirt some De-Oxit on the input jacks and tighten the nuts very tight.
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