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Vintage Tranny and power supply Questions

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  • Vintage Tranny and power supply Questions

    I recently picked up a chassis with iron and a couple tubes on it.

    There was a 5Y3GT recto tube , a 6J5 metal octal tube and 2 metal can 6SC7's.

    Where there were two missing tubes, the sockets were labled 6L6.

    Any how, the PT had this what looked like a broken tube socket on top.

    At home after removal I concluded it was the remanants of a switch and likely a primary voltage selector.

    The cloth leads on this transformer was in awful shape and the insulation would split and fall of when the leads were manipulated.

    I removed the bells from the tranny and carefully peeled back the varnish soaked silk tape to expose the connections from the transformer to the leads and replaced the leads with new leads.

    After that I replaced the silk tape and varnished them back into place and after that I applied a coat of epoxy as strain relief for the leads.

    Reassemled now, I felt safe enough to put some power to the tranny and take my readings. (see attached chart)

    These measurments are under no load.

    *EDIT* the RED B+ readings were taken to the RED/YELLOW CT wire.

    How much of a drop in voltage can I expect to see when I put this under load?

    I was hoping to build something with a couple 12AX7's (one as a pre amp the other as a PI) and a couple 6L6GT's in push pull. I'd also like to get about 35 or 40 watts of power.

    I know now this might not be possible as the B+ is about 50v too low when the primary tap is selected at the number 5 tap, but if the 1 or 2 tap is selected this might be possible if the heater windings didn't read so high.

    Is there a practical way of lowering the heater voltage if I select the higher 1 or 2 tap?

    My other quandery...

    This chassis had a 5Y3GT recto and powered 3 octal preamp tubes and a pair of 6L6's. This seems woefully inadequate. I would expect to see something more in the line of a 5U4GA

    If not, could I use a 5Y3GT to power the amp I would like to use this in with 2 12AX7's and 2 6L6GT's?
    Attached Files

  • #2
    what about SS rectification?

    Would this help me with B+ losses?

    I'm looking at a 5E5 Pro for design cue's and it looks like about 400V from the rectifier tube.

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    • #3
      I can't help you much with the primary selector but you are at the stage where you need to download the Duncan Power Supply Designer II

      http://www.duncanamps.com/software.html

      It is free and does all the calculations on loss, rectifiers, first caps on the rail, etc. Start with a ballpark B+ and divide it by the expected current draw of the tubes while you are running some signal into it (i.e. 430 volts / 2X40 ma for the power tubes and 3 ma per preamp tube -- let's say .09 amps or resistance of 4777 ohms). The default load is 5k so you are close already. Then just monkey with the components.

      Confirm your faith in the integrity of the PT too. If I were determined to use it, I'd put it on a 5k 100 watt resistor and a filter cap using a fused variac. Bring it up slowly. If that trannie gets hotter than the resistor, you should know that as soon as possible.
      sh

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      • #4
        Was the labeling for 6L6{nothing}? The old metal 6L6 was rated at 360V and 19W. Only good for about 25-30W per pair in class AB1. Not as robust as the 6L6GC. The 6L6GB was the same spec as the metal 6L6 so the 5E5 would be a very reasonable choice. I would use the tap that gives 6.3V on the heater supply when the amp is complete. B+ will be close. If it's too low use a GZ34.
        WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
        REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

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        • #5
          Thanks for the quick informed replies

          I'm not looking into rebuilding this amp, I am hoping to salvage the iron and build a budget amp.

          In fact on that budget line of thought i figured i might use 6BG6G's as power tubes.

          Knowing now how much less the 6L6's output is compared to a 6L6GB I am wondering now if the output tranny is severely delinquent.

          Total output power is really the least concern; reality being what it is (short pockets) a little less output would favor me especially in the speaker department. (Ted Weber signature series are rated at 25 watts and cost less than $50 for a 12" alnico)

          Around this house tone is king. I built a 5E3 with a Weber signature series 12" for my son. all his guitar snob, metal thrashing, Line 6 playing buddies now come over to "jam" on his 12 watt tube amp.

          LOL heck they REALLY dig the tiny 3 watt (guestimate) combo amp i made by pulling the chassis from an old Zenith cobra matic portable record player and stuffing it (8" alnico speaker and all) into a wooden cab just 9 x 12 x 8 and covered it in denim instead of tolex or tweed HAHAHA!

          That was a BUDGET BUILD! $12 for the record player, $6 for the 1/4 sheet of 3/4 birch plywood for the box, $8 for the caps off eBay and maybe $4 for a couple pots from RS. That’s less than $30 for amp that breaks up real quick and rocks nicely in his bedroom

          Oh yeah! those sexy brown Dekaware knobs came off this chassis too, now if I could only find some NICE clothesline for a handle instead of that cheap stuff my neighbor used to have LOL.
          Attached Files

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