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shielded wire for inputs

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  • shielded wire for inputs

    would this stuff be ok to use for wiring from input jacks to the 12ax7?
    Mojo Wire » Mojotone 22-Ga Shielded External Braid Cloth Covered Wire

  • #2
    You could, but i'd heat shrink it or get some with a pvc or teflon jacket. Because you don't want the shield to short against anything, and even shorting against the chassis could cause hum if your input jack is isolated for noise. In many designs like mine, the input jack is isloated for that reason. If i use a regular jack that shorts to the chassis i get hum with my start ground design. So just having the shield touch the chassis would hum in mine. just a few thoughts to ponder. Of course you can route it in such a way that it won't, but i'd always go with plastic/teflon jacket to remove all doubt.

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    • #3
      Tubes and More has this Belden shielded wire with insulation.

      WIRE, BELDEN, 20AWG, DOUBLE SHIELDED, STRANDED

      S-WS20

      20 AWG, double shielded, stranded, high quality.

      Used for input jacks and to re-cable a DeArmond pup. Works great.

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      • #4
        Any decent shielded cable that is flexible enough to fit in there comfortable is good. As daz said - it pays to put some heat-shrink over the non-grounding end of the cable to stop the shield shorting
        Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)

        "I have never had to invoke a formula to fight oscillation in a guitar amp."- Enzo

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        • #5
          so as long as i keep the shield from touching anything except where it is grounded it should work fine.

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          • #6
            Yeah, it's the same as jacketed cable. But what freaks me out is that no other components in an amp have such a potential for disaster. When a piece of metal 3-6" long thats grounded breaks loose theres a good chance it will contact a part of the B+ rail. That scares the f outa me. So i'd still put heat shrink on it. or at least tie it in a couple places so even if the end comes off it won't flop down onto the turretboard. i assume you realize that it should only be grounded at one end for ground loop elimination, so the other end will be held in place only by the hot lead. Enough vibration over time and that can break loose. So tie it down somewhere and/or heat shrink it.

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            • #7
              When a piece of metal 3-6" long thats grounded breaks loose theres a good chance it will contact a part of the B+ rail. That scares the f outa me.

              they are no where near the b+. they will run over to the wall of the chassis and secured with those nylon sqare things you put a tie through to secure.

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