Cathode-life standby switching on cathode-bias amp?

[Hardtailed]

I'm about to wire this AC30 clone to have a cathode-lift style of standby switching. The cathode resistor (power amp only) is close enough to the standby switch that this is just easy to do, and will fix the issue of big current surges when switching out of standby (it has tube recto).

I did explain to the guy who I'm making it for that the Stdby is actually unnecessary on this amp, but I'm providing more as a "mute" switch.

For one thing, I guess I can't use the cathode resistor to DC elevate the heaters now. And I will be putting a 10K 3W resistor across the switch to let some current go through on Stdby.
But beside that, is there any reason I shouldn't go this way?

[R.G.]

I'm about to wire this AC30 clone to have a cathode-lift style of standby switching. The cathode resistor (power amp only) is close enough to the standby switch that this is just easy to do, and will fix the issue of big current surges when switching out of standby (it has tube recto).

I did explain to the guy who I'm making it for that the Stdby is actually unnecessary on this amp, but I'm providing more as a "mute" switch.

For one thing, I guess I can't use the cathode resistor to DC elevate the heaters now. And I will be putting a 10K 3W resistor across the switch to let some current go through on Stdby.
But beside that, is there any reason I shouldn't go this way?

Whyn't just wire the standby as a real mute and leave the tubes hot, but unsignalled?

[Groover]

Why is a standby unnecessary on this amp?

[Hardtailed]

Why is a standby unnecessary on this amp?

Why would it be necessary?

For one thing, at 335V, cathode stripping should not be a problem.
And since it's tube rectified (using a GZ34), a slow turn-on is built-in.

I just realized I said "cathode-life" but I meant "cathode-LIFT"