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Tung-sol KT120- new output tube?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by defaced View Post
    Damn, I thought I was getting this. Looks like I'll have go do some reading and take some measurements. Thank you for the clarification.

    It's really simple. Load impedance across a B+ voltage determines output power (Power = Voltage^2 / Load). Peak-peak voltage swing across the plate-plate load = double the B+, and Peak-Peak Voltage^2 / Plate-Plate Load Impedance = Peak Power. 1/2 peak power = average power.

    Tubes just control the current flow through said load.

    If you draw up a simple 2 resistor voltage divider, but make the grounded resistor a pot, the pot would represent the tube. Rotation of the pot represents input signal. The top fixed resistor represents 1/2 the OT primary.

    As you rotate the pot one way, resistance drops, which allows more current to flow. But since the pot's resistance is dropping, so is the voltage drop across it.

    At the point where the pot is at the resistance where 1/2 the peak current is being drawn and voltage across the pot is at 1/2 the max resistance voltage, it is at this current/voltage that the pot is dissipating the most power. This represents the output signal being at 1/2 the swing.

    Now as you increase branch current, current through the fixed resistance also increases, which increases the voltage drop across the fixed resistance.

    Once the pot reaches zero resistance, the fixed resistor is dissipating the full power and you are at peak swing.

    Reverse the pot rotating for the negative swing.
    Last edited by Wilder Amplification; 05-03-2010, 05:24 AM.
    Jon Wilder
    Wilder Amplification

    Originally posted by m-fine
    I don't know about you, but I find it a LOT easier to change a capacitor than to actually learn how to play well
    Originally posted by JoeM
    I doubt if any of my favorite players even own a soldering iron.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Wilder Amplification View Post
      Nah you'd need 4 of them to match SVT output power (150 watts a pair roughly).

      Of course this assumes that they'll actually live up to their claimed 60 watt plate dissipation rating.
      I just meant a cut-down SVT type of amp, not necessarily a 300w output stage. a 150w bass head is still pretty loud unless you're going for a really clean bass-heavy tone.
      HTH - Heavier Than Hell

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      • #18
        would this little 11kg OT work?
        http://www.plitron.com/shopping/specs/414100.pdf

        1250 into 2/4/8
        2500 into 4/8/16

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        • #19
          Originally posted by tedmich View Post
          would this little 11kg OT work?
          http://www.plitron.com/shopping/specs/414100.pdf

          1250 into 2/4/8
          2500 into 4/8/16
          11kg

          That's one of the problem here... sure you can build a massively powerful amp with just 2 of those, but you still need massive transformers to make it work.

          One use I can think is someone wanting the most power from a single tube (in single-ended config), but I supposed only hi-fi buffs would care about that.

          That said, I guess there is some kind of bragging right in building a 150-180W Plexi with just 2 power tubes.
          Or building a proper SVT with "only" 4 power tubes.

          After all, in the end, this is all just about having fun

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          • #20
            The real fear is what to do when the tube is no longer available? Perhaps re-socket for a GU50 or some Russian equivalent?

            I'm debating ordering a pair to play with...then I'd have to order other stuff to go with it.

            I have some very huge 4k:16/8/4 OT's. I'm thinking maybe one of those and an Antek PT for 770 on the plates and half that on the screens. Rough guess with that combo says about 150 watts for the pair.

            Would anyone mind double-checking my math?

            jamie

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