all that's entailed is capping off the 40% OT taps to allow the amp to be a straight "pentode" I'd use inner melt heatshrink and pinch the end closed when still hot on the 4 ends once cut. This will allow reconnection if you don't dig the big decrease in output. A big beefy DPST switch would let you try it out,
apexjr
but it would be noisy and dangerous
Oh I think chokes are a complete waste, although Fenders could use more filtering usually
all that's entailed is capping off the 40% OT taps to allow the amp to be a straight "pentode"
Wouldn't you have to connect the screens to some B+ voltage, rather than just disconnecting them from the tap on the transformer? Might need to go to a DPDT...
Wouldn't you have to connect the screens to some B+ voltage, rather than just disconnecting them from the tap on the transformer? Might need to go to a DPDT...
Sure, otherwise it wont work at all.
What model Fender is this? I had a Super Reverb UL model years ago. (Bought it new). Needed a loud clean amp and it worked well for that. I dont know how easy it would be to convert to the earlier SF or BF circuit.
"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is."
- Yogi Berra
I see that you're in the L.A. area. Maybe you got my old one! Does the pull gain boost work on yours? Mine didnt when I purchased it, so a tech at the music store I worked at took all that crap out and maybe did some other tweeks - the amp didnt seem so 'brittle' afterwards.
"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is."
- Yogi Berra
'if you don't dig the big decrease in output'
with the Fender 75, the power output is the same whether it's configured as UL or regular beam tetrode. No decrease in clean or overdriven power output with the screen to their own supply node.
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