Originally posted by mooreamps
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current and cathode bias SE
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Originally posted by kg View Posti'll get the page/section numbers when i get home today.
owing to the second harmonic component of the signal frequency plate current, the average plate current under operating conditions is greater than with zero signal.
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Originally posted by Steve Conner View Post
Or I could have a push-pull amp that's "Class-A up to 1 watt output", say. Above 1W, one of the output devices cuts off at some point in the cycle: it goes into its Class-AB region.
or are you saying there is some bias shift going on when you dime the power stage ??
-g
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No, not really.
For instance, I just finished building a solid-state amp that puts out 150W into 4 ohms. To get the best distortion performance, it likes to be biased at about 250mA. So, the first watt or so is Class-A. (That's why I designed it that way: they say the first watt is the most important.)
But whenever the instantaneous current delivered to the speaker gets much above 250mA, the unused half of the output stage must be off at that instant. Therefore the remaining 149 watts are delivered in Class-B. That's why they are called Class-AB amps.
A push-pull Class-AB tube amp does exactly the same thing, except it's probably more like the first 10 watts that are Class-A, and the transition is more gentle.
In a push-pull amp designed for pure Class-A, the idle current is set so high that one half of the output stage will saturate before the other half ever turns off. But no musical instrument amps were ever made this way.
We've had long and bitter debates over this, you might want to search the forum. I proposed the concept of "design class" and "operating class" to try to work out a compromise between your school of thought and mine."Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"
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Here is what I did on my 36 watt jazz amp, running 2 6L6 push/pull... The self bias cathode resistor puts the S.E bias at -18 vdc... Let's call that Class A. Then, I inject an additional -24 vdc for a total of -42 volts for Class A/B.
-g
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Why would anyone want to switch between class A and class AB without additional parameters like PI output and OT suitability being met. I'm pretty sure if you took a class A push pull amp and simply biased it AB most players wouldn't like it very much (think Vox AC30 with -10VDC added to the grids). Conversely if you took an average AB amp and just heat it up into class A it wouldn't work very well and could even cause damage. It seems to me that trying to draw a line in between two designs for all other parameters to facilitate a simple voltage change for operating class would have dissapointing results on both ends."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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in my experience, the difference in "sound" as you change classes is very subtle and difficult to discern.
that is, unless you go so far as to induce crossover distortion. the thing about my experiences with xod basically adheres to steven's quotation that "the first watt is the most important." since xod is by definition a small signal phenomenon it is, to my ears, more apparent than something that happens at max Pout.
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Originally posted by Steve Conner View PostAnd when you add that extra 24v of fixed bias, does the cathode voltage really stay at 18?
-g
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Originally posted by Chuck H View PostWhy would anyone want to switch between class A and class AB without additional parameters like PI output and OT suitability being met.
The "PI", or IPA as I call it, flips modes from S.E to P/P.
and the O/T really doesn't care as long as both tubes are sitting there idling at the same value of plate current...
:>
-g
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Originally posted by mooreamps View PostThe "PI", or IPA as I call it, flips modes from S.E to P/P.
Originally posted by mooreamps View Postand the O/T really doesn't care as long as both tubes are sitting there idling at the same value of plate current...
EDIT: Nice to have you back Ken. I rejoined late after the format change and I've missed the old crew."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Well, in Class A/B Push-Pull, electrically it's set-up like a fender twin.. In Class A S.E., electrically it's set-up more like a champ.
Now, I could use KOC's "body" control instead, but this is how I have it set-up for the moment....
-g
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