Have you been over to Duncanamps.com and downloaded the free Tone Stack Calculator? It is a cool bit of software that simulates a variety of common tone stack circuits that you can adjust not only the control settings, but also the component values, and see in real time the changes to the response curve.
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New build - voicing question
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I feel very sorry but I see a lot of mistakes, both in the original design and some of the answers too.
Most of this comes from the fact that snipping parts from different amps and pasting them together without due analysis is an uncertain and unprdictable way of designing an amp.
The original ones may work very well, but not the new Frankenstein.
Imagine grabbing a Strat neck, and just bolting it on an LP body, stuff like that.
1) your simulation shows bass cut.
Fine.
*Maybe* that is done on purpose, it´s just part of the amp sound.
Otherwise the best guitar sounds would come out of plugging it stright into a Studio mixer Line in ... or a Home Hi Fi amp.
Example; the typical VOX combination of a 500pF coupling cap feeding a 500K volume pot.
It cuts frequencies below 640 Hz !!!!!!!!!!!!!
And at 640 Hz it's already 6 dB down !!!
Yet it's a valid Guitar amp, killer sound !!
So, in a nutshell, cap and resistor values must not be pulled from different amps and combined at random; they were chosen carefully (either calculated or worst case "ear tuned") to achieve a certain goal.
Mix and matching (or rather, *not* matching) leads to unpredictable results.
May I suggest the best way is to first have a rough idea of what you want to achieve and then design whatever's necessary to acomplish it.
By having an idea I mean, say, "I want a stage with gain 50X here" which a specific goal , not something like "I would like to have the brightness of a Vox and the body of a Dual Rectifier" which is something too nebulous.
2) don't know why you use relatively high 220K plate resistors on U1 and U2, (to achieve higher gain?) whike in U1 that rises the generator impedance , not too good if youhave to drive a tone stack; and after U2 you place a 100K resistor which kills that gain (and headroom)
3) C3 is incredibly small. Why did you choose that value? It kills all bass and renders the bass control ususable.
4) C9 + R16 form a highpass which cuts frequencies below 1600Hz !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
5) C9 can't be removed because it's not there to stop DC coming from U2's plate but because U3's grid is floating some 40 V above ground.
6) R46 + R16 are a 5:1 attenuator. What's its purpose?. AFAIK it only kills headroom.
7) U10 (feedback pot) shorts the speaker output when on "0". And may lead to instability when on 10, as mentioned above.
8) the 1N5817 diodes specified have a breakdown voltage of 20 Volts; they are shown standing 360V DC, which double on normal operation and may triple with inductive loads.
Usually 3000V worth of diodes are specified there, either 3x1N4007 in series or some special very high voltage ones.
9) in a nutshell, instead of correcting, reposting, re correcting, re reposting and so on, I'd suggest actual building some proven schematic, testing it fully, and start modding it one step at a time.
Simulating a mod , then actually performing it, plus later measuring and listening, then going back and re testing, on and on, is a nice way to match what the designer imagines will happen and what *really* happens.
After doing it quite a few times, you start having a quite accurate idea of what will happen, even before building it. Cool.
Probably there are other ways to do this, buy they may easily become frustrating real quick, because what you imagine and the actual result may not match.
Good luck.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by J M Fahey View PostI feel very sorry but I see a lot of mistakes, both in the original design and some of the answers too.
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post1) your simulation shows bass cut.
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post2) don't know why you use relatively high 220K plate resistors on U1 and U2, (to achieve higher gain?) whike in U1 that rises the generator impedance , not too good if youhave to drive a tone stack; and after U2 you place a 100K resistor which kills that gain (and headroom)
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post3) C3 is incredibly small. Why did you choose that value? It kills all bass and renders the bass control unusable.
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post4) C9 + R16 form a highpass which cuts frequencies below 1600Hz !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post5) C9 can't be removed because it's not there to stop DC coming from U2's plate but because U3's grid is floating some 40 V above ground.
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post6) R46 + R16 are a 5:1 attenuator. What's its purpose?. AFAIK it only kills headroom.
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post7) U10 (feedback pot) shorts the speaker output when on "0". And may lead to instability when on 10, as mentioned above.
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post8) the 1N5817 diodes specified have a breakdown voltage of 20 Volts; they are shown standing 360V DC, which double on normal operation and may triple with inductive loads.
Usually 3000V worth of diodes are specified there, either 3x1N4007 in series or some special very high voltage ones.
Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post9) in a nutshell, instead of correcting, reposting, re correcting, re reposting and so on, I'd suggest actual building some proven schematic, testing it fully, and start modding it one step at a time.
Originally posted by J M Fahey View PostSimulating a mod , then actually performing it, plus later measuring and listening, then going back and re testing, on and on, is a nice way to match what the designer imagines will happen and what *really* happens.
After doing it quite a few times, you start having a quite accurate idea of what will happen, even before building it. Cool.
Probably there are other ways to do this, buy they may easily become frustrating real quick, because what you imagine and the actual result may not match.
Good luck.
Thank you very much for the post and you time you took writing it!!!In this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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You're welcome.
Yes , I referred to the original schematic.
As of item #4, I'd increase the value of R16 at least to 220K and maybe even to 470K (not sure, but actual testing rules )
And calling something "Frankenstein" is a friendly way of referring to something made of stitched up body parts , all coming from different bodies, that is .
Congratulations on ypur experimenting, as you see LTSpice or whatever *is* showing the bass cuts, clipping points, etc. , but precisely because it is a guitar amp, the final design must be passed through the "Ear-O-Meter Mk IV".
And the preferred signal source is not the best Nasa approved HP or GenRad $20000 signal generator but a trusty old worn Strat (or whatever) you have standing against the wall.
Good luck.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by J M Fahey View PostYou're welcome.
Yes , I referred to the original schematic.
As of item #4, I'd increase the value of R16 at least to 220K and maybe even to 470K (not sure, but actual testing rules )
And calling something "Frankenstein" is a friendly way of referring to something made of stitched up body parts , all coming from different bodies, that is .
Congratulations on ypur experimenting, as you see LTSpice or whatever *is* showing the bass cuts, clipping points, etc. , but precisely because it is a guitar amp, the final design must be passed through the "Ear-O-Meter Mk IV".
And the preferred signal source is not the best Nasa approved HP or GenRad $20000 signal generator but a trusty old worn Strat (or whatever) you have standing against the wall.
Good luck.
About the Frankenstein stuff. I was not offended by anything in your post.
The R16 and stuff around it. I don't know how to design a phase-inverter. (It is the phase inverter we're talking about right?) I just figured I go with the same schematics as the power section.In this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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Very simplified:
Input impedance: basically the grid resistor. Not quite reliable over 1M anyway.
Output impedance: the load resistor in parallel with the internal plate impedance (Rp) which usually is around 68K.Juan Manuel Fahey
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Originally posted by J M Fahey View PostVery simplified:
Input impedance: basically the grid resistor. Not quite reliable over 1M anyway.
Output impedance: the load resistor in parallel with the internal plate impedance (Rp) which usually is around 68K.
Code:IN : 1 MOhm Out : 220 * 68 * 10^6 / ((220 + 68)*10^3) = approx = 52 kOhm
In this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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Ok, this was simply me picking a diod in LTspice randomly because I couldn't find any sufficient.
Marshall McLuhanEducation is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by Enzo View Post"We shape our tools, and thereafter our tools shape us."
Marshall McLuhan
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