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  • #16
    Thanks Again.
    Going with the LTP and an octal of the 6SL/6SN type, can I just substitute it right in for an AT7.?
    That is to say, can I use the same component values for the LTP AT7 with my Octal PI.?
    And yeah, I will get out of the Choke Input Filter and go with the more common as you suggest.
    Thank You
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zquNjKjsfw
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMl-ddFbSF0
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiE-DBtWC5I
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=472E...0OYTnWIkoj8Sna

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    • #17
      Go with the 6sl7. It should be an easier tube to get anyhow and it has similar ratings to a 12at7. I think you may find that you need to pad the signal to the PI a bit. Maybe design that possibility into the amp so it won't be a problem if it comes up.
      "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

      "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

      "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
      You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
        Go with the 6sl7. It should be an easier tube to get anyhow and it has similar ratings to a 12at7. I think you may find that you need to pad the signal to the PI a bit. Maybe design that possibility into the amp so it won't be a problem if it comes up.
        Are you talking about "reducing" the gain of the PI, via smaller value plate resistors perhaps, or maybe some higher value grid resistors at the 6K6 power tubes.?
        Other than that question, it is time to figure a clean way to wire all this together. It is not an easy task. We are use to working on an amp chassis that is "autonomous" so to speak. That is, you can remove it from the cab/box, and completely wire/finish the chassis, then slide it back into its cab, and bolt the amp chassis in with a few screws and nuts. This conversion has a front and back that bolt to the chassis AND the metal box. I am probably going to have to cut a slot in the back of the cab/box, and use that cut-out as a "back plate" for the chassis. Otherwise, you kind of paint yourself into a corner, and there is no way out..... or rather no way to get inside the chassis to finish it/hook it up.
        Thanks For All The Help
        I Really Appreciate It
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zquNjKjsfw
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMl-ddFbSF0
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiE-DBtWC5I
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=472E...0OYTnWIkoj8Sna

        Comment


        • #19
          I just mean that you should have a voltage division circuit option feeding the PI input. That way you can adjust the gain as needed in the final tweaking process.
          "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

          "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

          "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
          You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
            I just mean that you should have a voltage division circuit option feeding the PI input. That way you can adjust the gain as needed in the final tweaking process.
            10-4
            Thank You
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zquNjKjsfw
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMl-ddFbSF0
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiE-DBtWC5I
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=472E...0OYTnWIkoj8Sna

            Comment

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