Irradiated PVC hook up wire???

[Chuck H]

This is it:

#2630 - #2635 600 Volt UL Approved - 105°C (CSA 600V-90 °C)

[defaced]

Thanks for the update Chuck. I'll definitely consider this stuff the next time I go to buy wire.

[pdf64]

For low 'shrink back on soldering' I like the 'tri-rated' switchgear type cable Buy Switchgear & Tri-rated Cable Red tri-rated cable 0.5 mmsq RS FE/TRIRATED/0.50/RD/100 online from RS for next day delivery.
However, it's not co-operative to work with, and gets scorched by the iron as easily as any other type.

I have a hunch that thick insulation like this is beneficial in mitigating for inter-wire capacitance, eg on long bunched runs as per Vibrato channel controls on BF type builds; the thicker the insulation, then the further apart the conductors are and so the lower the capacitance (which probably decreases exponentially with distance) - right?

I haven't tried testing the theory yet.

I noticed that a DrZ EZG50 amp had really nice wire dressing with similarly thick insulation; on examination, it was solid core.
I've always thought that multistranded wire was more reliable, as in less prone to breaking in high vibration environments, but DrZ amps have a good rep, and many vintage amps used it.
So am considering whether solid core is the best option.
I think that the key is to avoid nicking the core when stripping the insulation, as the nick then may act as a focal point for fractures.
Pete

[Chuck H]

I think that the key is to avoid nicking the core when stripping the insulation, as the nick then may act as a focal point for fractures.
Pete

I've read the same thing. And solid would also be easier to route where you want it to go. For eyelets I prefer stranded for sure. I might try solid if I were building on turrets where you have at least a 2/3 wrap around a post. That seems sturdy enough to take some abuse to me. But that's just my impression. No experience with this.

I will also add that the wire I bought is the 7/30 strand and I prefer the 19/34 (but it wasn't available in this line). There is a point of diminishing returns though. I've used silicone test lead wire on a couple of projects and the high number of very fine stranding can be problematic in a couple of ways.

[big_teee]

Does your new wire have individual strands, or is your wire pretinned with solder?
The wire from mojo is stranded wire that has been run through solder, making it one piece, more like solid wire.
I like the pretinned like mojo, but don't like their fragile insulation.
T

[Chuck H]

Each strand is tinned and then bundled. So using it results in the usual spaghetti look that stranded PVC does. The Mojo stuff sounds pretty cool. But I wonder how much of the benefit of individual stranding is lost when you weld them all together like that. It sort moots anything that the flexibility of individual strands had to offer.?.

The test lead wire I used was NOT tinned. Using flux core solder, it wasn't a problem whetting the whole wire bundle at the joints. But I've seen clear insulation speaker wire after years of being stored in less than ideal conditions and the un-tinned copper is all black and green. That can't be good. So I didn't want to use that stuff anymore. Of course you should never leave your amp where copper turns black and green. But, of course, people will. I don't know this for certain, but I think tinned stranding would be less prone to oxidize like that.

[big_teee]

Each strand is tinned and then bundled. So using it results in the usual spaghetti look that stranded PVC does. The Mojo stuff sounds pretty cool. But I wonder how much of the benefit of individual stranding is lost when you weld them all together like that. It sort moots anything that the flexibility of individual strands had to offer.?.

The test lead wire I used was NOT tinned. Using flux core solder, it wasn't a problem whetting the whole wire bundle at the joints. But I've seen clear insulation speaker wire after years of being stored in less than ideal conditions and the un-tinned copper is all black and green. That can't be good. So I didn't want to use that stuff anymore. Of course you should never leave your amp where copper turns black and green. But, of course, people will. I don't know this for certain, but I think tinned stranding would be less prone to oxidize like that.

What I like about it, is that it speeds you up.
No tinning or twisting required, just strip and solder.
You get the benefit of solid in a strand it is a bit stiffer.
Here's what it looks like.
Yours sounds great too.

[defaced]

The tinned wire BT is talking about is all the rage with the stompbox guys right now. I think SmallBear, GuitarPCB, and some private sellers are selling it. I've never tried it, but the guys who have love it.

[jpfamps]

I also like the "topcoat" wire, but it's hard to get in the UK, and there are RoHS issues.

I've not tried the irradiated PVC coated wire.

Shrink back is an issue, especially if you have to use lead-free solder as it has a higher melting temperature.

I've started using Alpha Eco-wire which is PPE coated. The insulation is higher temperature than PVC, so suffers less from shrink back, and is quite stiff, so it behaves more like solid core wire.

[jpfamps]

I have a hunch that thick insulation like this is beneficial in mitigating for inter-wire capacitance, eg on long bunched runs as per Vibrato channel controls on BF type builds; the thicker the insulation, then the further apart the conductors are and so the lower the capacitance (which probably decreases exponentially with distance) - right?

Capacitance can also work in your favour. For example tightly twisting the filament wiring increases the capacitance between the two conductors, which will reduce HF interference such as rectifier switching artifacts on the LT.