valve reverb questions

[g1]

If you look at the pdf from post #4, on the first picture there are 4 springs labelled "support spring" on the 4 corners of the tank. They support the "inner aluminum channel" (or "pan"). Where the springs are connected to the "outer steel channel" (tank casing) there are several holes the springs can be attached to. By mounting the support springs in different holes you can adjust how loose the pan is in the tank. In this way you should be able to tighten up the pan so it can hang upside down and not bottom out in the tank.

[tubeswell]

Another aspect of this you might want to think about, you may find that you have to attenuate the dry signal somewhat when you come to mixing the wet signal in - in order to hear the wet signal (BF reverb amps do this). This depends on the strength of the dry signal. You may even want to think about adding a wet signal gain boost stage before the wet signal insertion point. The Allen Old Flame does just that FWIW. JM2CW

[HTH]

Thanks guys, I'll bear those suggestions in mind - I do intend on a valve/tube reverb at some stage in some amp, but for this project (2210 JCM800 rebuild) I've got a Belton digital reverb on the way - I think its the most practical solution for this particular amp. I'm just gonna wire it before the PI as if it were in the effects loop. http://www.musikding.de/Active-parts...307_63_83.html

It frees up two triodes that could be used to expand the sonic palette of the amp - thats five ECC83s I have to play with, one for the PI though. Gives lots of scope.