I designed an amp - does it look OK?

[jussi]

Hey,

I wanted to make lower watt version of Electric Amp MV120 (schematics). I decided to use two 6v6 tubes and to use power supply from Plexi 6v6 schematic. I know most of the sound comes from the preamp.

This is my first time designing an amp and I have some questions. I have built one amp before though (AX84 HiO). Does it look like it would work properly?

I want this amp mostly for the very heavy distortion/fuzz sound you can get. But I changed the tone stack for experiment and FAC caps (they looked like wrong compared to orange or matamp amps). I also added the unused V1B in parallel with V1A.

Does the transformers and choke I have chosen look like they would be good for this? I get 230V from wall outlet.

Hammond 156R choke would be equivalent (I read from forums) to the NOS choke in plexi 6v6 schematic, but I chose 157R because it has 2 henries instead of 1.5. I want to play this amp with bass too so I would like to have good bass response - do I need even higher inductance in choke? Bass response is good in the OT and its easy to change some caps if needed. What about the 400 VDC max rating - too low?

(click to open schematic)

[überfuzz]

It seems to be quite a lot of stuff for a simple high gain amplifier. Very crowded! Okey, well, lets put it this way, what would you end up with if you left out all junk you don't have a basic understanding of?

[potatofarmer]

Just a couple quick construction notes - your safety ground should be connected to the chassis by its own dedicated bolt. You can, of course, also connect the circuit ground to the chassis at this point, or you could connect the input jack to the chassis, but you want that safety ground to be on its own.

The only other thing I see is the mains fuse - you want that in line with the switch on the hot line, not the neutral.

I'd take another look at your paralleled V1 stage - you're getting a lot more gain than the original design and you're going to be rolling off a little bit more high end with a 68k grid stopper. Cool if that's what you're going for, but you might want to tweak it down the road.

Even with a shorting (make-before-break) rotary switch for your depth control you may get some popping. Check out how they did it on the Matchless DC 30.

Okay, last thing I think: you should probably use a higher-rated reservoir cap.