Okay, so I've been looking at retubing my '81 "ultralinear" twin, and the insane screen dissipation pdf64 measured a couple years ago ( http://music-electronics-forum.com/t18237/ ) has me second-guessing putting a new quad of 6L6GC's in here. What information I've been able to find about ultralinear/distributed load operation seems to agree that for reliable operation you have to keep the screen voltage (and by extension, the plate voltage) under the Max Vg2 listed on the datasheet. Some current manufacture tubes state 500V is acceptable on the screens, but the historical spec is 450V and I trust that number a little more.
Currently I have 2k/5w screen stoppers on the output tubes, which may not be enough, but it's better than nothing. Also it appears that the sockets have been replaced at least once in the past, unless Fender decided to use a stack of washers to hold the bear trap and socket retainer on the outside of the chassis.
I should also mention the "vintage value" of this amp is roughly zero. The cab has been water (or at least humidity) damaged, there are rust spots on the chassis, the grille cloth mounting frame is cracked in several places, and so on and so on.
Anyway, I'm looking at these plate voltages (~510V loaded), the odd screen tapping point (as measured on a similar OT by bob p: http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33707/ though I should verify this on my OT), and I'm thinking... why not KT88s?
Pro:
Con:
Considerations:
So there are a few things I know I need to do first - verify the primary impedance of the OT, verify the screen tapping points, design/modify a better bias supply - but I'm wondering what my blind spots are here. Or if I'm doing something wrong or anything like that I'd greatly appreciate the feedback!
For the forseeable future this will just be an exercise in wasting time and paper, but by the time I can free up enough cash to try this I'd like to be sure about what I'm doing.
I should mention in addition to adding larger screen stoppers, I've also removed the pull-boost and disabled the global NFB loop (well, I put it on the pull-boost switch so the "pull to sound worse" functionality is still intact) and done a couple minor preamp tweaks too. I currently have the inner pair wired as triodes, and I admit it sounds pretty good like that, but I'm still worried about long-term reliability. Steve Conner metioned once (I think in a thread I linked to here) that doing so may lower the screen dissipation for all four tubes, but I don't quite see how...?
Thanks!
Currently I have 2k/5w screen stoppers on the output tubes, which may not be enough, but it's better than nothing. Also it appears that the sockets have been replaced at least once in the past, unless Fender decided to use a stack of washers to hold the bear trap and socket retainer on the outside of the chassis.
I should also mention the "vintage value" of this amp is roughly zero. The cab has been water (or at least humidity) damaged, there are rust spots on the chassis, the grille cloth mounting frame is cracked in several places, and so on and so on.
Anyway, I'm looking at these plate voltages (~510V loaded), the odd screen tapping point (as measured on a similar OT by bob p: http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33707/ though I should verify this on my OT), and I'm thinking... why not KT88s?
Pro:
- better able to handle high plate and *screen* voltage in UL for increased reliability
- screen tap point correlates better to KT88 than 6L6 - closer to actual UL than just DL (see graph of power vs winding % of screen tap here: ultra-linear ) - will still have higher Zout than triode mode (oh darn) but will reap nearly all the other benefits of UL operation
- KT88 have a better reputation for UL performance
- silverface PI already optimized(-ish) for lower grid leak load
- potential increase in power output, if PT can deliver current
- because it's interesting
Con:
- cost of new tubes
- danger(?) to iron
- extensive work for little(?) benefit
- breakup even later
- potential increase in power output, if PT can deliver current
- I'm not actually insane
Considerations:
- max DC resistance @ >35W = 100k
silverface twin = 47k/68k = no problem - heater draw
2x KT88 = (1.6A ea)(2) = 3.2A4x 6L6GC = (0.9A ea)(4) = 3.6A - OT Primary impedance
4x6L6GC in a Fender = typically 2k, possibly 2.4k in "UL" ampuse speaker mismatch to get up to 4k-4.8k - OT primary DC current at idle
2x6L6GC = ~60-80 mA per side1xKT88 = (.7)(42W/510V) = ~57mA -> "design max" is 35W so ~48mA per side max expected idle current - biasing
balance circuit crucial (will it be enough?)increase neg. bias voltageadd bias adjust pot (going to do this anyway) - sockets
replace bear traps with spring retainers - fit/clearance
in outside sockets, shouldn't be a problem (based on steelguitarforum thread) - screen grid stoppers
already at 2k/5w, change to 1k/5w
So there are a few things I know I need to do first - verify the primary impedance of the OT, verify the screen tapping points, design/modify a better bias supply - but I'm wondering what my blind spots are here. Or if I'm doing something wrong or anything like that I'd greatly appreciate the feedback!
For the forseeable future this will just be an exercise in wasting time and paper, but by the time I can free up enough cash to try this I'd like to be sure about what I'm doing.
I should mention in addition to adding larger screen stoppers, I've also removed the pull-boost and disabled the global NFB loop (well, I put it on the pull-boost switch so the "pull to sound worse" functionality is still intact) and done a couple minor preamp tweaks too. I currently have the inner pair wired as triodes, and I admit it sounds pretty good like that, but I'm still worried about long-term reliability. Steve Conner metioned once (I think in a thread I linked to here) that doing so may lower the screen dissipation for all four tubes, but I don't quite see how...?
Thanks!
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