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2-way speaker crossover design

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  • 2-way speaker crossover design

    Hi all,

    I recently got a pair of blown Behringer active boxes. Decided to get rid of the amp and add a crossover so I can use them as passive boxes. I can find a load of schematics online and I understand how filters work, but I'm curious about which part "dictates" power handling? Obviously the capacitors have to be rated at certain voltages and I have to protect the tweeter somehow, but I figure inductors are a limiting factor current-wise and also the most expensive part?

    The speakers are 12" 500W and 1.75" tweeter.

    Alternatively, I'd go for active and adjustable crossover just for the sake of fiddling around.

    Any suggestions and literature are welcome.

    Regards.
    Last edited by m1989jmp; 10-26-2019, 11:30 AM.

  • #2
    I'd just buy a crossover from PartsExpress or someplace similar, unless you're really invested in the DIY ethos.

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    • #3
      For best performance (frequency response, power handling) the crossover frequency and filter type (steepness) need to be tuned to the frequency responses/sensitivities (SPL) and the power capacities of the woofer and tweeter. Not a simple task at all.
      - Own Opinions Only -

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Helmholtz View Post
        For best performance (frequency response, power handling) the crossover frequency and filter type (steepness) need to be tuned to the frequency responses/sensitivities (SPL) and the power capacities of the woofer and tweeter. Not a simple task at all.
        Absolutely correct. The quirky, nonlinear dependence of the speaker's complex impedance and sensitivity and the crossover's components to get a clean changeover from the bass to treble is very difficult, and most often involves multiple passes with new high-current, high value inductors and capacitors.

        The difficulties in making a good passive crossover have always driven me to bi-amping and third order active Linkwitz-Riley filters that can repeatably give you a good, constant power, no-holes-or-bumps crossover. This approach is typically easier on the amp as well.
        Amazing!! Who would ever have guessed that someone who villified the evil rich people would begin happily accepting their millions in speaking fees!

        Oh, wait! That sounds familiar, somehow.

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        • #5
          tuning a specific speaker especially the totally custom / cost is the entire object combos on active monitors is very tricky (as many more knowledgeable have already said here!)
          if interested in active DIY, the MiniDSP set ups allow real open and easy design of active systems, and they are getting better/more sophisticated and cheaper every year.
          see: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidspkits

          I'm planning to use this balanced unit
          https://www.minidsp.com/products/min...p-balanced-2x4
          to feed a ICEPower 400w amp/power supply sometime this year on a tiny subwoofer.

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          • #6
            It's very hard to protect the tweeter with a passive crossover system. You usually need to resistively attenuate the tweeter and add some type of limiter. In fact the first thing I would do is verify that the tweeters are not already toasted before going forward and spending any more money on these things.
            WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
            REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

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            • #7
              i would get a 2 way active crossover and separate power amps, so you can assign an adequate level to the tweeter.

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              • #8
                Behringer makes powered and non- powered wedges that use the same drivers. Just find the schematic for the the passive version and copy it. I would be tempted to just parallel the tweeter off of the jack with a large 2.2uf cap and run the speaker full range. Cheap and easy to try. If it’s too bright add a resistor or rheostat.

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                • #9
                  Thanks a lot for the info. I found some Behringer passive wedges for parts really cheap so I scratched that DIY plan. They sound decent enough now.

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