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High in-home line volts, switching taps 220 to 240 on Marshall circuit to lower in-amp voltages

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  • High in-home line volts, switching taps 220 to 240 on Marshall circuit to lower in-amp voltages

    My home is currently providing +/- 240V AC in lieu of the supposed 230V. One of my DIY amplifiers, a Marshall 2204 (50W, MV) based circuit, has a Hammond 290GX power transformer that is made for 120V, 220V, and 240V.

    Currently I have the 220V tap wired up, but I am changing it over to 240V as my heaters are +3.8V per side and overall amp voltages are rather higher than I’d like.

    While I’m in the amp, I am thinking of elevating the heater voltages to better manage the v2 cathode follower voltages as well which currently stands at 192VDC…. Following the docs at Valve Wizard’s web page (https://valvewizard.co.uk/heater.html) on elevated heaters, I believe I could use a divider of 1M - 100k to ground (with a 10 or 16µF smoothing across the 100k to ground) from the screens B+ (which is 508V at the moment of writing this) *** see below - my calculations show this should roughly provide +45 VDC for my heater’s center tap.

    Something has me confused though… *** The docs say that "The elevation voltage can be taken from a potential divider across the HT (it doesn't matter where you position the divider)". I see a lot of people say to take this from the screens supply on 1959, 2203/04 circuits, but schematics seem to always show this happens after the standby switch. I see that in newest scems, Marshall takes elevated heaters from the CT supply before the standby switch.

    So when the amp is in standby, the heater supply CT sees just the 100k/16µF to ground? Is that okay to do? Merlin’s doc mentions "The divider should have a fairly high resistance so as not to waste current, although the lower arm (R2) should not be excessively large or Rhk(max) may be grossly exceeded, so it is advisable not to make it greater than 100k.".

    I can’t find data in tube sheets that I have on hand to explain Rhk… I assume this is the amount of resistance between the heater and cathode? The only reference I could find is something like "Cathode - heater insulation resistance" - I’d love to understand this more.

    Could someone fill in some of these blanks?
    "'He who first proclaims to have golden ears is the only one in the argument who can truly have golden ears.' The opponent, therefore, must, by the rules, have tin ears, since there can only be one golden-eared person per argument." - Randall Aiken

  • #2
    Hello again.

    I understand this is a dead horse thread... I have read others on this very board, but I just wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing.

    I did end up adding a 1M and 100k/10uF divider and all is good according to the DMM...

    First, I swapped to the 240V Tap... gave me the perfect drop in voltages. B+ at the output tubes is now 454 VDC as opposed to the initial 508VDC. Heaters are now at a more manageable 3.2VAC per pin at the EL34s (pin 2 and 7), Heater divider is showing 41VDC elevation. v2b Cathode follower now at 167VDC as opposed to the initial 192V, plus the heaters elevated bring that to a +/- 128 V difference.

    Set bias to 34mA which calculated to 16 watts dissipation - more or less...

    So, all is well that ends well... overall a good experience... I haven't heard the amp yet, but firing it up momentarily and have all the confidence in the world :-)
    "'He who first proclaims to have golden ears is the only one in the argument who can truly have golden ears.' The opponent, therefore, must, by the rules, have tin ears, since there can only be one golden-eared person per argument." - Randall Aiken

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