Vintage Japanese tempo 35w4-50c5-12au6 help

[52 Bill]

Then never mind what I said about the pilot, I couldn't tell how it was wired from the photos.

You need to break the connection between pins 4 and 5 and install the dropping resistor between these pins. Or break the connection and install the resistor from pin 4 to the power switch.

[325chris]

ok im going to run power(120v) to pin5 the lamp between pin6 and pin4 and put a 130ohm 5 watt resistor between pin 4 and 5. Sound ok to you?

[52 Bill]

Yes, that sounds right.

[JHow]

Jhow,

I believe our amps are very similar. On your 35w4 heater pin 4 does that connect to pin 5 (the plate) too?

Here. I am attaching Rider shemo of what I am talking about. Sometimes a picture is helpful. If you go to the last two pages you can see how the 35W4 is hooked up. 52 Bill is telling you right, just a little bit differently, but this should give you the overall idea.

Note that on these schemos, the "common" symbol is not the chassis, but in reality is a wire returning to a dual tag strip. The chassis connection from the line is through a .047uF cap in this example. Also note this schemo has no fuse, and no three-wire cord. The record player is totally encased in bakelite, so the user never actually touches metal parts. This is antique stuff.

M0014924.pdf

[325chris]

Wow jhow that is awesome schematic probably print that off and save it thank you very much for posting that. So this shows the resistor coming in after pin three should I follow the schematic or is it ok to place the resitor directly in between pin 5 and pin 4 same thing or no?

[JHow]

325Chris:

The ballast resistor can be anywhere in the series. Doing as Bill52 suggests is fine and convenient, since you are using the socket lugs. I thought you might find the attached useful as it explains what the resistor is doing, also how to calculate the value and power of the resistor if you didn't know what it was.

For your case I get 35V + 50V + 12V = 97V, 120V - 97V = 23 V, 23V / .15 A = ~153 ohms, 23V * .15 A = ~ 3.4 Watts, so a 120 Ohm to 150 Ohm 5-watt power resistor should work if your original is missing.

I have to be honest, I can't tell much from your pictures (the fault of my eyes, not your picture-taking skills), hopefully this will help you.

I got the attached from an old book, "How to Repair Old-Time Radios" by Clayton Hallmark, TAB Books ca. 1979. I don't think it is in print anymore. It's mostly oriented towards radios, but he included a lot of info that helps with antique stuff like the various dot codes and color codes used on old caps that I find useful from time to time.

[52 Bill]

Note that on these schemos, the "common" symbol is not the chassis, but in reality is a wire returning to a dual tag strip. The chassis connection from the line is through a .047uF cap in this example. Also note this schemo has no fuse, and no three-wire cord. The record player is totally encased in bakelite, so the user never actually touches metal parts. This is antique stuff.

And this is a very good point. As was pointed out earlier in the thread, these amps can cause bodily harm when mis-wired or faulty. We have only seen a few photos of your amp, so there is no way for anyone but you to know how safe it is to operate. Please be careful and if this is really beyond your pay grade, seek professional guidance.

[325chris]

jhow,

Thank you for that I understand the problem in this amp a lot better now and the reasoning behind it. Crazy how its tied in with problems from the trying to save money in the great depression. Little did they know it would be such a death trap haha

[JHow]

jhow,

Thank you for that I understand the problem in this amp a lot better now and the reasoning behind it. Crazy how its tied in with problems from the trying to save money in the great depression. Little did they know it would be such a death trap haha

I would also second 52 Bill's comments about the triad 68nx isolation transformer. If you search the threads there have been several detailed discussions, look for threads about Harmony 400, or Kay amps.

[325chris]

Ok got the 5w 130 ohm resistor went through about 5 fuses and couldnt figure it out. I had one fuse left and decided to take the lamp out because it was really messing with me powered it on and I got sound. Now that I know its working just have to install the isolation transformer. Tried it out though and it sounds great really awesome unique tone that breaks up early. Thank you guys so much for all your help

[JHow]

Hmm. I can't tell how it's hooked up orginally exactly from the photos, but it looks like you have a #40 6.3V 1.5 A bulb? Was it hooked across pin 3 or 4 heater and 6 heater tap of the 35w4 by any chance? You need 6 Volt drop approx. and I have seen those bulbs across heater tap like that. Before you do anything with the bulb assembly, make sure the assembly itself is not shorted somehow.

Edit: have a look at the bottom of the second data sheet. Was there another dropping (shunt) resistor hanging around in the chassis that we didn't consider?