Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Info on a NATIONAL amp needed

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Info on a NATIONAL amp needed

    I just acquired an old National combo amp. Wondering if anyone can ID it and date it ? Not sure on the model . I would also love a schematic if anyone has it ??

    I will post 3 pics of it.

    The circuit is :
    2 6n7
    2 6v6
    1 80 rect tube

    2 inputs
    1 volume/power switch
    single 10" national dobro speaker .













  • #2
    Well , so far Im finding it might be a Model C , dated 1938 ?

    any National experts here on the forums ?

    ive clipped in a couple caps--and believe it or not....the thing works ! The speaker is rotted though... also has old Tung Sols in it !

    Comment


    • #3
      Looks like a field coil speaker.

      Comment


      • #4
        Sounds like you may have already found this:
        http://www.valcopages.com/Schematics...al-dobro_c.pdf

        Comment


        • #5
          Heres a weird issue-- i put a new bulb in for the power light. It works, but it goes on and off randomly. I cleaned the socket and all the solder joints re- flowed.

          it does it with or without any tubes. almost like some sort of current is causing it ? IVe poked around a wiggled wires--but that didnt change anything. Its a new, generic 6V bulb i got today .

          also watched a AC meter with amp on---its off the 6v heater tap---the meter doesnt change when the bulb is going on/off .

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by madkatb View Post
            Sounds like you may have already found this:
            http://www.valcopages.com/Schematics...al-dobro_c.pdf
            yea buddy --thats the amp !

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Valvehead View Post
              Heres a weird issue-- i put a new bulb in for the power light. It works, but it goes on and off randomly. I cleaned the socket and all the solder joints re- flowed.

              it does it with or without any tubes. almost like some sort of current is causing it ? IVe poked around a wiggled wires--but that didnt change anything. Its a new, generic 6V bulb i got today .

              also watched a AC meter with amp on---its off the 6v heater tap---the meter doesnt change when the bulb is going on/off .
              That's why they call them filament lamps. Anyway it could be an intermitent lamp (it happens even new) or more likely just bad contact. Sometimes adding a little solder to the end of the bulb will fix it. Also a little Caig Deoxit in the socket. Btw, if you don't re-cone that speaker you will have to substitute the field coil with a choke to use a modern speaker with that amp.

              Comment


              • #8
                wow- i didnt know that . so the choke would go between the power tubes and OT ?

                what kind / size of choke would i need---mH , etc...

                please explain the field coil speaker and why i have to add a choke with a reg speaker --- Ive never seen one of these !! Interesting !


                also-- i did clip onto the OT and ran that to a 4x12 cab....the amp worked fine.
                Last edited by Valvehead; 10-28-2011, 08:03 AM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Valvehead View Post
                  wow- i didnt know that . so the choke would go between the power tubes and OT ?

                  what kind / size of choke would i need---mH , etc...

                  please explain the field coil speaker and why i have to add a choke with a reg speaker --- Ive never seen one of these !! Interesting ! i did clip onto the OT and ran that to a 4x12 cab....the amp worked fine.
                  That's because you just paralleled the cab to the existing speaker. The existing speaker is a field coil speaker. It doesnt have a permanent magnet. It has an electromagnet on the B+ supply. If you look at the schematic it shows the field coil. That is in the speaker. If you take the existing speakerout and replace it with a modern one, you usually have to substitute the field coil with a choke or a resistor. I have no idea what the value should be, bit the guys that repair old organs on this board will.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by olddawg View Post
                    That's because you just paralleled the cab to the existing speaker. The existing speaker is a field coil speaker. It doesnt have a permanent magnet. It has an electromagnet on the B+ supply. If you look at the schematic it shows the field coil. That is in the speaker. If you take the existing speakerout and replace it with a modern one, you usually have to substitute the field coil with a choke or a resistor. I have no idea what the value should be, bit the guys that repair old organs on this board will.
                    ok , id rather use a resistor --if anyone can come up with a value, and where exactly it would go

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X