Is there a way to tell, internally, if an amp should have a 6L6 output tube opposed to a 6V6? I have been working on this now and then for about a year and a half. My exhaustive online research (where everything you read is true) has found one very similar example that has an original 6L6 output tube rather than a 6V6.
This amp has always been very anaemic. I have replaced just about all the caps and resistors in it after replacing the bias cell with a cap and resistor. The only other major change was adding an on/off toggle. It had none and no volume control either. I believe the speaker has been replaced also. It has good tone but no balls whatsoever. So I began wondering about the output tube. After reading extensively I tried a 6L6 for a very short time and it sounded great.
Using a bias tester the 6V6s I have tried run at about 58 ma. A NOS JAN one rapidly developed a lovely blue glow at the base and went all distorted.
The PT has the following numbers 391647 and 5567 but I can't read the faded name on it. The OT is a Thermador, as near as I can read with no visible numbers
How can I accurately determine what the tube should be?
This amp has always been very anaemic. I have replaced just about all the caps and resistors in it after replacing the bias cell with a cap and resistor. The only other major change was adding an on/off toggle. It had none and no volume control either. I believe the speaker has been replaced also. It has good tone but no balls whatsoever. So I began wondering about the output tube. After reading extensively I tried a 6L6 for a very short time and it sounded great.
Using a bias tester the 6V6s I have tried run at about 58 ma. A NOS JAN one rapidly developed a lovely blue glow at the base and went all distorted.
The PT has the following numbers 391647 and 5567 but I can't read the faded name on it. The OT is a Thermador, as near as I can read with no visible numbers
How can I accurately determine what the tube should be?
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