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1962 Ampeg Reverberocket screws and foot switch

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  • #46
    Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
    My take is that the side panels have flaps and are separate & riveted in.
    In your pdf pics, it almost seems the sides may be wood and those are more like tacks than rivets?
    Originally posted by Enzo
    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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    • #47
      Either way, it must be a hoot changing out the switches.

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      • #48
        You know, I never thought that there could be timber involved in the switch construction. It makes sense, because the main eyelet board support in these amps is a strip of wood and that pic certainly looks like the sides are painted timber. The bends are not a problem and I feel closer now to getting there. Just would like to know what that it looks like from underneath and how the top attaches. I can see the return that wraps around underneath that goes part way.

        Edit:

        Just found this pic which confirms the part-timber construction. Now I'm even more intrigued to know how this fits together - solid core with holes /cutouts, or just timber sides?

        Click image for larger version

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        Last edited by Mick Bailey; 02-18-2018, 12:38 PM.

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        • #49
          I just now saw the side panel wood grain on the pic from post #45.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Mick Bailey View Post
            What are the correct screws for the back panel of this amp? The one I have has had nasty, oversized, zinc-plated twin-thread chipboard screws fitted and I want to get it back to original.
            I just posted a ton of Ampeg clutch head screws on ebay, reverb and talkbass. The 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" should work for the back panel, I think.

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            • #51
              Originally posted by mamcleod View Post
              I just posted a ton of Ampeg clutch head screws on ebay, reverb and talkbass. The 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" should work for the back panel, I think.
              Filthy money grubber!

              Just kidding It's actually good of you to notice this, join the forum and post. But it seems that earlier in this thread the OP discovered that his screws were likely Phillips originally (you may have skimmed past that). But since you're a member, stick around. We do everything here from restoration to poo pooing restoration, but there's room for all.
              "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

              "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

              "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
              You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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              • #52
                Originally posted by mamcleod View Post
                I just posted a ton of Ampeg clutch head screws on ebay, reverb and talkbass. The 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" should work for the back panel, I think.
                Could you post links in the Plug Your Product/Service section of the forum? It will help those looking find them.
                "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                • #53
                  Here's how the first attempt turned out. The size came out as far as I could tell as the face being 4 1/2" x 4" and 1 3/8" deep at the back. I scaled off pictures to locate the switch centres as 1 1/4" down form the top but when I punched the holes they looked too low. So instead of thinking it through made them 1 1/8", only to find they sit 1/8" too near the top and the original measurement was right. The timber infill makes for an immensely strong pedal. It's nice and slim, too - much better than most amp pedals. I left the timber grain partly exposed as per the originals, and scuffed the paint a little with a Scothbrite padto take the edge off it, though the picture makes it looked scratched. At least it gets me to the stage where I can now make up the missing holder/bracket inside the cabinet where the pedal slots in.

                  When I get some better idea of how the back is attached I'll make another and silk-screen the lettering to give a better look.

                  Click image for larger version

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