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Ampeg Gemini II G-15 quirks

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  • Ampeg Gemini II G-15 quirks

    Hi, all. After years of procrastinating, I'm finally working on my Gemini. I've had this amp since the late '70s. It's the 7591 / 7199 version.

    The amp has always disappointed me in terms of sound. It always sounded dull, but since there were some obvious issues, I never got rid of it. The first issue is the reverb--the tank was missing when I bought it.

    Yes, the power tubes are old. And yeah, they need to be replaced. It should be said that there was some arcing, loss of volume and a high pitch squeal when the treble controls were turned up (more about the treble controls later.)
    Youtube of the 7591s when the treble is cranked (you cannot hear the hi-pitched squeal on the camera's mic, and it's fairly muted anyway--not an out-of-control oscillation.)

    I bought a new tank a year or so back (yep, it's an appropriate impedance for the ampeg reverb schema), and replaced the C6G7 reverb driver tube, but no dice.

    So three days ago I pulled the chassis. The resistor for the screen supply has some heat damage, I'm sure it has something to do with the arcing (you can see it between tags 62 and 69 on the board.) It needs replacing, but is still near it's speced value.
    http://music-electronics-forum.com/a...1&d=1234377823

    And the bias supply cap looks bad (Gold medium size cap in the chassis pic), so that's on the to-do list, but the supply still reads -22V.

    RE: the reverb-- first thing I noticed was a missing ground on one of the reverb lines. OK, this is a ground-loop thing--connect the grounds inside the reverb, not at the chassis. Success! The reverb is functional for the first time in 30 years.

    Here's where the story gets weird.... Both reverb and tremolo are available on both channels. And that's not supposed to be the case. There's a strange interaction between the controls--the effect on each channel can be eliminated by turning down the tone on the other channel. And the volume controls on the other channel act more like a tone mixer.

    Once the reverb was working, the power tubes stopped squealing and arcing--treble settings now had no detrimental effect.

    So there are two slotted POTs on the back of the chassis. One is a 100 ohm rheostat to balance the 7591 cathodes, the other one I thought was the bias voltage (would make sense, right?) But no, it seems to connect the signal path from the tag board to the Echo (reverb depth) POT.

    You can see the routing for the pot in this photo (prominent grey shielded wire to and from the pot at the bottom.) You can also see the real bias voltage adjustment--the little blue trim pot on the tag board.
    http://music-electronics-forum.com/a...1&d=1234377949

    Did some evil genius modify this years ago? Should I leave it? I sort of like a lot of the sounds that result from knob twiddling...despite their non-intuitive interactions.

    Edit: correct schematic below
    Attached Files
    Last edited by gmoon; 02-12-2009, 04:31 PM. Reason: Remove incorrect schematic drawing.

  • #2
    Originally posted by gmoon View Post
    Did some evil genius modify this years ago? Should I leave it? I sort of like a lot of the sounds that result from knob twiddling...despite their non-intuitive interactions.
    Yes, the reverb pot on the back and the bias trimpot have been added.

    Evil genius? I doubt it. If you like it as is, use it and enjoy. You can always go back to stock or mod even more in the future.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by 52 Bill View Post
      Yes, the reverb pot on the back and the bias trimpot have been added.

      Evil genius? I doubt it. If you like it as is, use it and enjoy. You can always go back to stock or mod even more in the future.
      No genius, just evil, eh? Thanks, Bill. I don't have a reference for the "stock sound," so I'll un-mod first... The chassis is in surprising good shape, it's quiet and love the reverb so far. No mods planned if the stock sound is as good as the "evil" mod.

      Is it safe to say that the slotted stubby-shaft POT was the original Bias Voltage adjustment? To match the schematic...

      Comment


      • #4
        I don't have anything to add, but will be watching this carefully, as I, too have a Gemini II that has been sitting unused for years because it sounds dull--not like the one I played some time back that was crisp, punchy and wonderful. I suspect a cap job and a JBL would go a long way, but for now I will watch your progress, which will hopefully inspire me!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Ben N View Post
          I don't have anything to add, but will be watching this carefully, as I, too have a Gemini II that has been sitting unused for years because it sounds dull--not like the one I played some time back that was crisp, punchy and wonderful. I suspect a cap job and a JBL would go a long way, but for now I will watch your progress, which will hopefully inspire me!
          I'll look into posting some of the pics online in a larger format. That'll help other G-15 guys like you. Didn't have much luck finding any reference photos.

          Crisp, punchy and wonderful were not terms I'd have used to describe mine... Maybe with the bias cap replaced; and now that 7591's are readily available...

          Re: the speaker--I'm in the same spot, it's not the original. Fliptops recommends some replacements, if vintage can't be found.

          Comment


          • #6
            You didnt mention it,but if you havent changed the filter caps,I would do so.I havent met a Gemini that didnt benefit from new filters.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by gmoon View Post
              Is it safe to say that the slotted stubby-shaft POT was the original Bias Voltage adjustment? To match the schematic...
              No, I think that pot is the original hum control. It sets an artificial ground for the filament winding of the power transformer. It should measure around 100 ohms and the wiper will be wired to ground, with the two outside ends wired across the 6.3v tube filaments.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by stokes View Post
                You didnt mention it,but if you havent changed the filter caps,I would do so.I havent met a Gemini that didnt benefit from new filters.
                It's pretty quiet now...but I assume that would "tighten" the response somewhat? It could use it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by 52 Bill View Post
                  No, I think that pot is the original hum control. It sets an artificial ground for the filament winding of the power transformer. It should measure around 100 ohms and the wiper will be wired to ground, with the two outside ends wired across the 6.3v tube filaments.
                  Oh, my bad. I've found three schematics for this online, and posted the wrong one (Didn't even know about the third until I looked at that one closely just now .)

                  There's a 100 ohm bias "balancing" rheostat on the 7581's cathodes. That's still intact.

                  The bias voltage POT is 15K. That's the one I was speculating re: original purpose. Sorry about the confusion.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sounds like you are on the right track. I've done a ground-up rebuild on a Gemini I (all I started with was the chassis) and just did a major tune-up on a VT-22. There are a couple things that you might consider:

                    1) That screen resistor is working really hard. I replaced it with a Vishay/Dale 3 watter (very small, Mouser #71-CW2B-1.0K). I also put 470R 3 watt screen resistors on the tube sockets. With household volts going from 110 to 120 since then and that you might have to retube with eastern European 7591's, I don't think it will hurt.

                    2) I agree on the filter cap idea. Fortunately, exact fit and value canister caps are being manufactured again. Fliptops and Antique Electronics have them.

                    3) Have a look at this site:

                    http://www.ampegv4.com/forum/index.php

                    One recommendation I got there was replacing the tone stack module with discreet components. The entire Baxandall circuit is baked into what looks like a cracker with 7 wire leads sticking out the bottom. It is located behind the front board. They aren't famously the best parts. You can use a better grade of resistors and caps. It makes a difference. Search around for the pictures. If you don't find them, let me know and I'll send you the ones I saved.

                    4) Cool amp! With so many little dirt machines around it is nice to plug into something clean and sweet at the same time. And the reverb ...

                    Skip

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks for your thoughts, Skip.

                      1) The HV is definitely higher than the schematic value. The screen voltage is about 5V lower than the (new, 120VAC) plate voltage, which is close to 500V. Yep, I think an additional screen resistor for each 7591 is a good idea.

                      2) Thanks--using new can caps is a good idea (vs. the alternative..)

                      3) Hadn't seen that one. It's a little thin on the older Ampegs, but looks like it's just getting started. And thanks for the pics offer.

                      The reverb is really nice.

                      I'll have more to say about this amp as time goes on. The older mod definitely "chains" channel two into channel one, before the chan one tone stack and tremolo. There's a definite gain (and noise) increase, along with a more "scooped" sound. I'll trace the wiring modification and post it.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Those volts are way too high. I suspect it makes the amp a little harsh. You might think about redoing the standby with a big zener on the center-tap. It will mess up the bias voltage too so have a couple resistors nearby.

                        One of the schematics I've got shows 720VCT on the secondary but only 430 at the first node. At that draw, 500 volts would seem closer than 430. I just think 7591s seem happiest between 420 and 450 fixed bias.

                        Skip

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yep, the plate voltage is about 490V.

                          If I use several 12-15V zeners in series on the CT to drop the voltage, are 5-watt zeners sufficient?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I've always used the big bolt-on units. If you want to see schematics that use smaller ones, have a look at the Electar Trainwreck designs on Blueguitar.org. or Schematicheaven. Those are 5 watters IIRC. sh

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by luthierwnc View Post
                              I've always used the big bolt-on units. If you want to see schematics that use smaller ones, have a look at the Electar Trainwreck designs on Blueguitar.org. or Schematicheaven. Those are 5 watters IIRC. sh
                              Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I've been a little sidetracked with another project the last couple days. A couple things:

                              -- Definitely needs a new speaker. Been playing it through a vintage 2x12 cab (nothing special) and it sounds much brighter, alive and looses the "thud." Went back to the (non-original) 15 in. in the Ampeg, and the difference is confirmed.

                              -- Noticed there was still some redplating at higher volumes, even though the weird "treble knob" behavior had stopped. Changed out the toasted screen resistor with a 1.5K 5-watt, that fixed it. I'll take your suggestion about separate resistors into serious consideration...

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