I got back word from the first adopter of the Berkeley III repair PCB. It works.
Whew!! :lol:
The board fits the same mounting holes as the original, has the same circuit as the original [as far as I can tell - more on that below], includes the power supply and filters on the PCB, so the chassis caps can be left there are pretty bits of "originality", not hooked up, and ... it work!
The board hooks to the same pots, jacks, etc as the original, and in general just bolts in. The wires were re-routed to one side of the PCB, not all around it, so it can be flipped up to work on the bottom/solder side when/if service is needed.
So old Berk 3s can now be fixed without poring over the old PCB. Step 1 in the replacement process is "Clip off all the old wires at the controls, unscrew the original PCB and remove it. It is no longer needed."
Well, OK, you do have to solder new parts on the PCB, but hey, that's the fun part, right??
Whew!! :lol:
The board fits the same mounting holes as the original, has the same circuit as the original [as far as I can tell - more on that below], includes the power supply and filters on the PCB, so the chassis caps can be left there are pretty bits of "originality", not hooked up, and ... it work!
The board hooks to the same pots, jacks, etc as the original, and in general just bolts in. The wires were re-routed to one side of the PCB, not all around it, so it can be flipped up to work on the bottom/solder side when/if service is needed.
So old Berk 3s can now be fixed without poring over the old PCB. Step 1 in the replacement process is "Clip off all the old wires at the controls, unscrew the original PCB and remove it. It is no longer needed."
Well, OK, you do have to solder new parts on the PCB, but hey, that's the fun part, right??
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