Why bother trying to make a device that obviously is not a 12AX7 in design, assembly materials work in a circuit intended to use a 12AX7? All those mentioned models are from the same production line with the same assemblers. My own dismal "success" with finding normally functioning New Sensor 12AX7's tell me that the factory just does not know what a 12AX7 is or how to copy one. They sure do not look the same on a curve tracer.
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Thoughts on Tung Sol reissue 12AX7 and reliability?
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Originally posted by km6xz View PostWhy bother trying to make a device that obviously is not a 12AX7 in design, assembly materials work in a circuit intended to use a 12AX7? All those mentioned models are from the same production line with the same assemblers. My own dismal "success" with finding normally functioning New Sensor 12AX7's tell me that the factory just does not know what a 12AX7 is or how to copy one. They sure do not look the same on a curve tracer.
We put the "K" in Kwality.This isn't the future I signed up for.
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I doubt anyone is doing any research in tubes now, nor are there a surplus of people with the training or authority to change the core product since the market is not growing and no one is going to have major incentive to spend profits on R&D, when there is a strong incentive to not have long lasting tubes, or to use less common materials, or hire real engineers.
I have not seen any evidence that are are any qualified engineers in the few remaining manufacturers, and from a sales point of view, they are not likely to hire any. They know customers have irrational evaluation criteria, (not on things that can be designed in) such as "sweet" , "crunch", "authority", "warmth" or "brittle" or any of the casually used nonsense terms that describe something that is not inherent in the tubes, and improvements in reliability to people who are always searching for an elusive tone character by switching tubes often.
It is easy to see that the majority of new tube purchases are to replace perfectly functional tubes. The first resort, for most people, for home remedy of a malfunction or misadjusted amp before taking it to shop is to replace all the tubes. When people call about a problem to see how much it would cost, I ask them if they changed tubes and if so, bring the "bad" tubes with them because they just wastes more money on needless tube costs than a repair would have cost. By bringing them, at least I can tell an estimate of how much life to expect from the "bad" tubes. Besides a tube that has been working for several months is statistically more likely to continue working than any new tube. The most unreliable time for a current era tube is when it is first taken from the box.
Curve, smurves, take a random sample of 10 tubes and the curves are off enough to convince an observer that they are different tube types. I test a lot of tubes, primarily my Chinese bulk buys, and every time I buy directly from the factory in Saratov and find the chinese tubes are closer and quieter but the customers do not trust Chinese tubes, because they diss Chinese clothing which they all buy. They have two choices, Italian for $500 for a t-shirt or $5 for a Chinese t-shirt. Both sell well but to different customers. There is nothing in-between.
If they just want their amp repaired and are not caught up in the hoodie-voodie of magic tubes dust, and not specify which tubes to use, I always select Chinese 12AX7s and EH 6l6s or EL-34 because those combinations for me have been the most reliable. I can, won't, use JJ....too many re-dos. The best GZ-34 tube I have seen is made by Ruby, gets with 5-10% of the Mullard reference old pulls I have. I have never had one fail since they first went into production in the late 90s. I think that was because Tom, is not an engineer and was over-compensating on materials and precision due to not knowing for sure little could get by. I played with a lot of the prototypes as little changes were made over a period of many months until the design was locked. It was all based on the measured performance of a couple unused but meeting spec old Mullard tubes.
If a company really wanted to duplicate the specs and reliability of the RCA 12AX7, they could but it would take some time, careful measurements and repeated adjustments. I do not see the incentive or desire from the current producers.
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Originally posted by km6xz View PostIf a company really wanted to duplicate the specs and reliability of the RCA 12AX7, they could but it would take some time, careful measurements and repeated adjustments. I do not see the incentive or desire from the current producers.
Also, does Ruby actually make that GZ34 themselves or is it rebranded by them and made somewhere else?
Greg
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One of the "problems" is our friend daz seems to have been "blessed" with extra sensitive hearing. Not knockin' ya daz, hardly. There are "super-tasters" too, who can't stand some foods & beverages. I know a couple of those. Super hearers too. Hard people to please BUT when they're happy, you really have somethin' special. Before success is found, a lot of frustration.
Originally posted by km6sz View PostIf a company really wanted to duplicate the specs and reliability of the RCA 12AX7, they could but it would take some time, careful measurements and repeated adjustments. I do not see the incentive or desire from the current producers.
There was a lot of hype a couple years ago about the revival of the Blackburn factory. Glowing reviews about the working samples (ECC83) that were furnished. By the time reviews got to press, the factory was out of business. Could have been some sort of scam, also could have been a good faith effort that floundered. Projected price of the tubes was astronomical but mostly aimed at the deep pocket Hi Fi crowd.
There's also tubes now marketed as Northern Electric. Anybody know about these? Also sky high prices. I'm not going there. I'm cynically thinking they're just paint on some ordinary tube but open to hearing about anything different. If they were all that and a bag of chips I think we'd have heard more about them by now.
Originally posted by km6xz View PostThe best GZ-34 tube I have seen is made by Ruby, gets with 5-10% of the Mullard reference old pulls I have. I have never had one fail since they first went into production in the late 90s. I think that was because Tom, is not an engineer and was over-compensating on materials and precision due to not knowing for sure little could get by. I played with a lot of the prototypes as little changes were made over a period of many months until the design was locked. It was all based on the measured performance of a couple unused but meeting spec old Mullard tubes.This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View PostThere's also tubes now marketed as Northern Electric. Anybody know about these? Also sky high prices. I'm not going there. I'm cynically thinking they're just paint on some ordinary tube but open to hearing about anything different. If they were all that and a bag of chips I think we'd have heard more about them by now.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g-one View PostPossibly rebranded Full Music tubes. Were discussed in this thread: http://music-electronics-forum.com/t28329/
Some marketing schnook is making Canada look bad. And that ain't right.
FWIW when =c= had 12AX7's they were highly variable. Some of them made space ship noises, but the ones that sounded good, sounded great! Marshall put them in early 2000's amps, sometimes with a Marshall logo on. Huge flat plates, either shiny (nickel I guess) or flat grey. Oh well that's over, likely to never be seen again.
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If I had more money than sense I'd put the dream team together, Stan & Salvarsan (because of his chemistry knowledge), possible others here, and get a world class production line together. (Please nobody be insulted because I left you out. Hey it's just a day dream on a perfect summer day, what we're having here right now.)
Now I have to apply some sense because I need the money ... back to work!This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Originally posted by soundmasterg View PostIf I was going to have someone duplicate one of the old 12AX7 types, the American ones were reliable but many of the European ECC83's were better sounding and just as reliable. Mullard, Amperex, and Telefunken come to mind.
Also, does Ruby actually make that GZ34 themselves or is it rebranded by them and made somewhere else?
Greg
Any of them can sound better than the others if the circuit is optimized for the traits sought.
Yes, the GZ34 from Ruby is made by a small factory owned by Magic Parts/Ruby. It was an tube factory that was purchased by Tom and moved to a smaller town. It took a lot of work and red tape over years to get it operational. Tube manuals from the period when those tubes were still in production, interchange the nomenclature 5AR4 and GZ-34 but they measure differently. The Mullard GZ-34 was unique in it had less forward voltage drop so just sticking it into an amp with another full wave rectifier resulted in higher and stiffer B+. That was the reference tube that Ruby Tube used in developing their GZ-34.
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Originally posted by km6xz View PostThe various versions of 12AX7s all "sound" better than the others if put into a circuit that is optimized for their parameters.
Speakers i haven't messed with much, but then for decades i've always found any amp i use a EV12L in sounds better to me. I have yet to find any amp to be more favorable with anything else. They just get "my sound" far better than anything.Last edited by daz; 08-08-2013, 09:23 PM.
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Originally posted by km6xz View PostLeo, if a heater has a negative potential and it reduces hum there is something wrong elsewhere in the circuit. It could help if the "right" defect or leakage is present.
The early cathode-biased amps tied it to the cathode resistor. Intermediate models tied it to 0V...
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Originally posted by Ted View Post1970s Ampeg B15s actually put the wiper of the hum balancing pot to the -ve bias. I have occasionally wondered why they did this and what possible difference it could make.
The early cathode-biased amps tied it to the cathode resistor. Intermediate models tied it to 0V...This isn't the future I signed up for.
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Sorry to bring this one back, but i just received half dozen more from tube depot and 1 was humming, 5 were fine ! I don't know what thats about. Maybe different batches, who knows. But to this point i had the exact same but to the other direction....2 out of about 12 good. Thats 1 for 6 good, and this batch i got one bad in 6. I was afraid i'd have to use something else, but this is hopeful, and 6 will probably last me till i die anyways. Last 2 i got from dougs tubes were both bad and i returned one (decided to keep one that was acceptable at best) but the replacement never showed up so for all I know that woulda been bad and made 3 for 3.
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