popoahi - I didn't quite get the thread in you last post... However, if you're concerned by whether a EL34 is a good replacement to a 12AT7 and such you might wanna go with the exact same tube that you found in your amp. Do not try any other.
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Originally posted by Mick Bailey View PostCan you tell me who you get your Chinese 12AX7s from? I've had terrible luck with the batches I've bought - very poor construction, high microphonics and very noisy in general"Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Originally posted by popoahi View Postis this true???--EL34 can interchange with a 12AT7,,, KT88 interchange with a 12AX7a,,, and 6550 can interchange with a 7025,,,????????
I havent been able to check to see if the pins or size are the same for all these tube interchangeability.....
got it this info from where I forget, but I had this info written out and just found it so why not just ask???
Uberfuzz's advice to stick with the actual tube types is great, and here's why. The EL34, KT88, and 6550 are all 8-pin power tubes. The 6550 & KT88 are roughly equivalent; the EL34 is usually replacement for 6L6s, IF your amp can handle the extra heater current. The 12AX7 and 7025 are 9-pin high-gain twin triode preamp tubes that ARE direct replacements for each other. At one time, there were differences, not so anymore in new production tubes. The 12AT7 is also a 9-pin twin triode preamp tube, but has 30% lower gain. It will "work" in a 12AX7 socket in a pinch, but maybe not as intended. It ideally should have some circuit tweaks.
I wasn't sure if you were aware of any of that, but since no one else mentioned it, I thought I should let you know that info you had is NOT coorrect! Hopefully saving you some trouble in ordering a tube, only to find out that not only is it not exactly right, but won't even fit in the socket! Check some of the online tube vendors, they'll probably have some tube sub charts. Or just ask here! Good luck,
Justin"Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
"Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
"All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -
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Originally posted by überfuzz View Postpopoahi - I didn't quite get the thread in you last post... However, if you're concerned by whether a EL34 is a good replacement to a 12AT7 and such you might wanna go with the exact same tube that you found in your amp. Do not try any other.
I might like the new sound using the different tubes???
so you're saying it would damage the circuits in my amp so forget about it???
I forget where I got this info from,,,, I just found where I had written it down in my notebook and thought to ask you all before trying it...
I don't want to risk damaging my amp...
popoahi
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Originally posted by popoahi View PostI understand..........my line of thought was as long as it doesn't damage my amp I would be curious to see how it would change the sound output???
I might like the new sound using the different tubes???
so you're saying it would damage the circuits in my amp so forget about it???
I forget where I got this info from,,,, I just found where I had written it down in my notebook and thought to ask you all before trying it...
I don't want to risk damaging my amp...
popoahiIn this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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Originally posted by popoahi View Postaloha,
so it seems you don't like the JJ 6L6 tube so are you a importer of tubes?
can I buy tubes from you 6l6 and 12ax7, at7, 7025?
what are your prices and where do you live so I can estimate shipping?
aloha, popoahiIn this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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Verdict: The cheep Chinese tubes I bought on ebay isn't that consistent. When they're in their lifespan they sound fairly good, definitely good enough for live situations. I'd say that, rough estimate, 1 of 4 tubes are not suitable for the studio.In this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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TWBF tubes
Originally posted by überfuzz View PostVerdict: The cheep Chinese tubes I bought on ebay isn't that consistent. When they're in their lifespan they sound fairly good, definitely good enough for live situations. I'd say that, rough estimate, 1 of 4 tubes are not suitable for the studio.
so whats the brand name of these tubes???
know how many brands of 6L6 tubes readily available for purchase ,,, and if I just wanted to buy just 1 or 2 sets of them???
I've seen JJ's I think they were called (just named with 2 letters), groove tubes, and a couple of other brands here in honolulu,,,now my mind has gone blank..? wouldn't you know it... I have macintosh 6L6 in my amp now and they make the Fender sound that I like.. I can't tell by looking as to who actually made the tubes for macintosh?
I'll post again when my brain starts working...
what I need is a easy to understand manual on biasing tubes mainly my 6L6's... my amp guy (he was in a rush) said I would need to put put a meter,,,
(what kind of meter?) on the number 3 pin to get the figures to start the process... I don't know which way to count to get to the no#3
pin??? asked how would I get a fat alligator clip on the #3 pin and still have enough length in the pin to have it connected to the electrical current,,as he quickly ran out the door???so no answer???
so I need a book on how to do it.... does fender sell a book on doing these kinds of things???
and I don't like buying electronics like tubes from Ebay,,, but it seems a lot of guy's do buy tubes off Ebay...I like to buy from a store so I can go to them if I get a bad tube...
almost midnite..
thanx and aloha, popoahi
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popoahi - Dude, it's time you get your hands dirty. Just buy a set of 12AX7s from your local vendor. The difference in tone among tubes is very detailed, not many people can tell the difference.In this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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There's a ton of questions so I'll try to tackle them one at a time. Also, it's strongly evident that you're just "starting out" in the world of tubes... so I'll try to keep things limited.
But bear in mind on the topic in general, *you're dealing with an almost 'dead format' when dealing with tubes*. Meaning we've come a LONG way in technology, and tubes are almost exclusively the domain of musical instrument amps etc -a limited niche market on the grand scale of products (and to a even more limited extent: tube stereo/amplification -a VERY niche and HIGH dollar market) these days.
So with that said, the current choices in tube manufacturers are extremely limited (again, compared to days of old). There are primarily only two sources of *mass produced* tubes: Russia or China. There are sub-markets within both of these, each having varying levels of quality. And there's even some "smaller" manufacturers outside of Russia/China. But those are the only two major sources currently (that I can recall offhand).
Originally posted by popoahi View PostI've seen JJ's I think they were called (just named with 2 letters), groove tubes, and a couple of other brands here in honolulu
Originally posted by popoahi View PostI have macintosh 6L6 in my amp now and they make the Fender sound that I like.. I can't tell by looking as to who actually made the tubes for macintosh?
However, once you start learning to identify tubes by their phsyical construction, you're going to find examples (typically exceptions) that break the 'rule' in the above link. Relabelling was as common back in the heyday of tubes (1950s-60s) as it is currently. However there were a TON of manufacturers then. Not so now.
An example of why this was done (in most cases):
Given that there were *MANY* companies manufacturing tubes at the height of tube use (Amperex, Brimar, CBS, Ei, Hitachi, Hytron, GE, Genalex, Ken-Rad, Matsushita, Mullard, Philips, Raytheon, RCA, RFT, Sylvania, Telefunken, Tesla, Tung-Sol, Tungsram, Western Electric just to name some of the top brands)...and even though the base specifications were set at a "standard", there were often variations in the process due to materials/machinery used/available, etc.
So if a designer intended/required the use of a tube with a given set of parameters, once they had sourced a tube that was acceptable, they would order a batch from a given manufacturer, and then have those tubes stamped with their own brand IE: "McIntosh".
[Also, please note the difference as was kindly pointed out earlier: it's "McIntosh" (a stereo company) -not MacIntosh (the computer company IE: Apple) The reason I emphasize this, is because it DOES make a difference in your search results!]
Though, even within the same brand, you might find different STR's (Special Tube Request or Special Tube Requirement depending on whom you talk to.)
EG: Mesa STR-415 (6L6, Sylvania)
Mesa STR-416 (6L6, ECG-Philips)
Mesa STR-420 (6L6, Chinese - Shuguang factory)
Mesa STR-425 (6L6, Sovtek - Reflector factory)
Mesa STR-454 (6L6, =C= - St.Petersburg factory)
Originally posted by popoahi View Postwhat I need is a easy to understand manual on biasing tubes mainly my 6L6's... my amp guy (he was in a rush) said I would need to put put a meter,,,(what kind of meter?) on the number 3 pin to get the figures to start the process... I don't know which way to count to get to the no#3 pin??? asked how would I get a fat alligator clip on the #3 pin and still have enough length in the pin to have it connected to the electrical current,,as he quickly ran out the door???so no answer???
*NOTE: THIS IS A WARNING, NOT A SUGGESTION, DO *NOT* DO THIS: if you got over-anxious to learn, without the proper knowledge, and pulled a tube far enough out, then grabbed a multi-meter and started probing around, potentially, you COULD STILL BE INJURED/KILLED if that meter lead slips and you touch the wrong pins/chassis/etc together*
Now, with that said, there are tube biasing kits that are well-suited to the beginning repair-tech/self maintaining types out there. (Regardless of whether you're wanting to simply further your own knowledge/education, or just 'thrifty') I get a feeling of genuine curiosity from you, and I think that's wonderful! But what we're trying to let you know is, make sure you know the risks involved *before* attempting things that definitely involve your safety/health!
Originally posted by popoahi View Postso I need a book on how to do it.... does fender sell a book on doing these kinds of things???
I'm not endorsing any of these, but just providing links to give examples of what I'm referring to above:
Bias Tester - AMP-HEAD Bias Tester Probe for Vacuum Tube Guitar Amplifier
Antique Electronics -
Bias and Matching Meter, Alessandro | Antique Electronic Supply
Bias King | Antique Electronic Supply
Compu-Bias™ Computerized Tube / Valve Bias Meter
BiasPlug - Tool for Biasing Tube Amplifiers
Originally posted by popoahi View Postand I don't like buying electronics like tubes from Ebay,,, but it seems a lot of guy's do buy tubes off Ebay...I like to buy from a store so I can go to them if I get a bad tube...
If all you're concerned with is being able to return a defective tube, then all you have to do is find a local music dealer who sells tubes, and verify their return policy on tubes!
Just realize that those tubes (regardless of brand) are probably coming from one of the two current sources, and will not give you the longevity or performance of an old RCA/Sylvania type that you seem to regard fondly (and with good reason) in your McIntosh labeled tube!
The old saying "They don't make them like they used to" is ENTIRELY appropriate where tubes are concerned.
Regards,
Audiotexan
PS: if I had to use current manufacture ("off-the-shelf") tubes, I'd prefer:
for output tubes (EL34, 6L6, etc)
---------------------------------
=C= (which is referred to as Winged C, or more aptly known as the original Svetlana tube factory in St Petersburg, Russia)
or EH (Electro-Harmonix) tubes.
for preamp tubes (12ax7, 12at7, etc)
------------------------------------
Shuguang (chinese tubes) first choice by far
EHStart simple...then go deep!
"EL84's are the bitches of guitar amp design." Chuck H
"How could they know back in 1980-whatever that there'd come a time when it was easier to find the wreck of the Titanic than find another SAD1024?" -Mark Hammer
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Audiotexan, popoahi - I've actually come to like new production of preamp tubes more and more over the years. That is in guitar amps. The reason for this is that new tubes seem to add that little extra roughness to the tone. Take a set of tubes from the golden age, the frequency response is flatter, the breakup is smoother over the frequency range etc... If you ask me, I'm not looking for tidiness when I strike a chord on my amp. A set of Chinese preamp tubes in my Twin Reverb makes it much more 'dangerous'. The only real drawback is the lifespan which is a far cry from old European tubes.In this forum everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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Originally posted by überfuzz View PostAudiotexan, popoahi - I've actually come to like new production of preamp tubes more and more over the years. That is in guitar amps. The reason for this is that new tubes seem to add that little extra roughness to the tone. Take a set of tubes from the golden age, the frequency response is flatter, the breakup is smoother over the frequency range etc... If you ask me, I'm not looking for tidiness when I strike a chord on my amp. A set of Chinese preamp tubes in my Twin Reverb makes it much more 'dangerous'. The only real drawback is the lifespan which is a far cry from old European tubes.
Newer tubes (generally) do a more than acceptable job within newer amps, simply because in most cases, they were designed to accomodate them.
You're not going to play metallica through an old 67 vibrolux, just like that same amp isn't going to like (read as: have a preference for) new tubes.
Totally different style/sound goals.
Now, as to "Take a set of tubes from the golden age, the frequency response is flatter, the breakup is smoother over the frequency range etc..." there was still quite a bit of variance back then (if not more so, because of more manufacturers) in the frequency response/breakup points than what there is now.
IF tolerances/QC was tighter nowadays, you wouldn't have nearly the wide range of "freq. response" that we due, thanks largely in part due to manufacturing inconsistencies. Never mind the lifespan (or lack thereof) of vintage tubes as you mentioned. Though don't make the mistake of just limiting that long-life to just European tubes! There's still plenty of old RCA/Westinghouse/Sylvania/etc still kicking...as well as Japanese, Canadian, etc.
Regards,
A.T.Start simple...then go deep!
"EL84's are the bitches of guitar amp design." Chuck H
"How could they know back in 1980-whatever that there'd come a time when it was easier to find the wreck of the Titanic than find another SAD1024?" -Mark Hammer
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