hmm... now that I think about it, I never tried copying a pcb, just made them from magazine articles and this one book, most with that whatchamacallit light sensitive stuff. I suppose it'd be easier with a scanner now.
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Do ceramic disc caps add to the script-logo MXR Phase 90s mojo?
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Originally posted by Mark Hammer View PostI use to simply photocopy the board, tape the photocopy to a piece of copper board, and use my spring-loaded centre-punch to make the dimple holes, then connect the dots. Made a couple of MXR clones this way back in the day.
Originally posted by jaysg View PostDavid,
My old P90...(foolishly sold off), was that layout. Does that mean it was a Script logo? I bought it between 1973 and 1977 -- can't recall or find the reciept. My 78 D+ is block. (I recall trying someone else's P90 in 1979 and I hated it.)It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
http://coneyislandguitars.com
www.soundcloud.com/davidravenmoon
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Originally posted by David Schwab View Post
I mostly used to make Distortion+ clones with TL071's.. a LOT easier!
I think I used every pin compatible opamp, surplus capacitor and suitable resistor I could find in the bottom of a drawer to knock up those things.
I used to have a really sweet one that used an opamp (the type escapes me now) that looked like a metal can transistor with 8 legs. I just bent the legs until they lined up with the holes and put bits of stripped insulation on each one.
The thing that used to really irk me was having to buy the 9V battery connectors.So B+ is the one that hurts when you touch it, yeah?
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Thanks for all of your replies to my post guys!
BTW, the BYOC Script-Logo Phase 90 kit now comes in a "new 6 opamp version".
Linky:
http://www.buildyourownclone.com/phaser.html
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