Digitech Control One Footswitch Schematic Request

[valvusmusicus]

Hi
Mine is very Ill-any out there please??

[doctor]

Hi
Mine is very Ill-any out there please??

I hope it helps.

[valvusmusicus]

Success

WOuld you believe it-first supect chip was duff (LM358)

Its working again-thanks Doc

[nalgassincarne]

Digitech Control One Footswitch Schematic Request

I hope it helps.

Hello Doctor, please could you link again the Digitech Control One Footswitch Schematic .PDF because the link it doesn´t work, i´ll be so greateful...

Thank you

[doctor]

Send me your private email.

[Audiotexan]

Hey Doc! Is there a chance I could trouble you for the part number for the switches on this unit?

I left a message with Digitech/Harman, but so far, haven't heard back.

Seems after too many years in storage... all 12 of mine have 'taken a dump'. They're all reading 8meg (N.O.), and when engaged are reading anywhere from 3meg to 3k...only when I REALLY mash down on two of them, do those two read .5ohm or so. *sigh* Even DeOxit (D100) wouldn't bring them back to life, and I only save that for the 'hard' jobs. Normally D5 (the aerosol) is good enough for everything but the toughest.

On the offhand chance these are NLA, anyone have any luck rebuilding these little suckers?

EDIT: pic

[Mark Black]

Rebuilding? No
Cleaning? Pretty iffy since the rubber membrane does a reasonable job stopping any cleaners from getting in (and back out).

Hopefully Mouser will be your friend here: Tactile Switches | Mouser

[Audiotexan]

'preciate ya taking the time, and the link!

I just got off the phone (since they didn't call me back) and actually got some on the way from Digi/Harm. Amazingly enough, even though the Control One has long since been discontinued, they still had some switches in stock!

If anyone else needs them, the part# is 44-0032, and I was quoted .52/ea.

However, when he went to place the order for a dozen of them, it actually came out cheaper. $3.84 + ~$4 S/H. So only .32 apiece!! Cheaper than Mouser or Newark etc, and shipped from only a state away via UPS. So they should be here in only a day or two via ground if my luck holds out!

As for the repair.. I fully plan on ripping at least one of the old one's apart just for the fun of it. I really wanna know why all 12 would go at the same time. Has to be a defect in materials or combination thereof (rubber releasing fumes as it degrades and corrodes the metal contacts perhaps). Just a WAG though.
Cheers!
AT

[Mark Black]

Awesome - glad they still have parts (and especially for a really decent price!).

Do take/post some pics if/when you rip one apart please - I totally get the 'just for the fun of it' aspect and it might help shed some light on the failure mode.

[Audiotexan]

Do take/post some pics if/when you rip one apart please - I totally get the 'just for the fun of it' aspect and it might help shed some light on the failure mode.

Happy to do so!
Amazing how the thing that got me into this all those years ago still brings joy.
(Ripping things apart to see what went wrong/how it works) *grins*

The clear plastic retaining 'ring' didn't photo too well, but it you look REALLY hard in shot 6, you can see the faint outline of it. I didn't worry too much about it though, as it's obvious how it works/fits in the shot posted previously.
BTW, These photos are all of the same switch. Just to be able to pick out the 'changes induced' via flash.

Anyways... on to the pics!



Looks like the majority of the problem is the little outside contacts. Although there's obviously been some wear and tear on the center point of contact as well. Oddly enough, the 'button disc' that interacts with the contact points seems only mildly 'corroded', though definitely noticeable around the outer edge.

Another point of note is that the center 'switch' is actually a hard plastic, not a tougher -yet "flexible" membrane, as I was half expecting (or at the very least a protective membrane under the hard plastic, insulating it from the 'elements' -Coke, beer, etc). No membrane whatsoever. So I now can confirm that the D100 penetrated just fine, but the contact points are more like a relay and would require burnishing, as opposed to a simple shot of Caig.

What you can't really see very well in any of the shots (as opposed to in hand) is that the center button (not the disc) appears to be comprised of two separate materials. As the outer ring is definitively more 'copper' looking than the raised portion. So not sure if it's been anodized for the expected additional wear, or if it is in fact two separate metal types.
So possibly, that center material has 'held it's own' so to speak, but perhaps that metal doesn't like the metal used on the outer 'tabs' (points of contact)??

(I haven't reburnished them yet, but I might post some 'post-repaired' shots, so that others who might not understand what they're supposed to look like can see the before and after.)

Anyways...it was fun!
Regards,
AT

[Mark Black]

Very cool, thanks!

[doctor]

Schematics repost.

[trickchit]

Thanks for the FC1 schematic repost doctor.

[Eqwipman]

Digitech Control One

I hope it helps.

I am interested in the file "control-1 rev B4.pdf" This I assume is the schematics.
I have this equipment and want to mod it.
Thanks,

[Enzo]

Did you notice the repost in post #12?