What is common Voltage for most pedals

[dumbassbob]

I want to start changeing some of my caps,but is it ok to use .22@250V. caps in a wha.or can I use much lower.I see all these T-fish caps and they all say .22 but they are different colors Red yellow white brown .Then some other will have a black line insted of white ect.Is it because they have a 20% +/-

[R.G.]

I want to start changeing some of my caps

Why?
I ask this not because you shouldn't if you want to, but because of the following sayings that come to mind:
1. If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there (Lewis Carroll, of Alice fame)
2. You've got to be very careful if you don't know where you're going, because you might not get there. (Yogi Berra)
3. If you don't know where you're going, you probably will end up somewhere else. (Laurence J. Peter)

Have a clear idea what you want to achieve and some idea that the changes you make could, possibly, somehow, get you there.

is it ok to use .22@250V. caps in a wha

Yes.

or can I use much lower.

Yes. Any capcitor can be used BELOW its rated maximum voltage.

I see all these T-fish caps and they all say .22 but they are different colors Red yellow white brown .Then some other will have a black line insted of white ect.Is it because they have a 20% +/-

"Tropical fish caps" is a term near and dear to the hearts of people who have bought piles of surplus caps at get-em-outta-here prices, and want to capitalize on the unknowingness of people who will accept the "they don't make'em like that any more" mythos. Tropical fish caps are just mylar/polyester caps. No magic in there. And if you can't read the color codes and don't have a meter to measure the capacitance of the ones you get, you might get what you want/asked for, and you might get anything at all.

[dumbassbob]

#1,I have a DVM but it "Never"reads what I think it's suppose to read Like my Candy Cane .01 cap in my 78 wha will read 107.9,and the other .01 will read 106.8. #2, I thought the T-fish looked cool,but some I have are 250V and some are 16V. I read on Geofx that if you change the Cin to .22 it will fatten the tone.Its a Crybaby and its alittle uneven in the tone Bassy and treble even when I adjust the pot.Its is a SOD Inductor,but is good when amp is clean 100W.Plexi but toooo bright when pumped.I want "GROWL"I have learned alot on these forums for a dumbass

[J M Fahey]

Hi dumbass.
Parts have "tolerance", which means that they may be, say, 10% or 20% above or below the printed value.
1) What you read is normal, 107.9 and 106.8 mean .01079uF and .0168uF , some 7% over the rated value, excellent!!!
And they are within 1% from each other, amazing !!
2) I don't think any polyester cap is made for 16V, never seen any below 50V, lowest usually is 100V.
3) Try to mentally disassemble the circuit that interests you, and analyze it part for part.
For example: "ah! I have a .022 cap here, which together with an input resistor of "x" ohms, gives me a low cut frequency of "y" Hertz; now *if* I use .047uF I'll get ...... "
Applying "random" mods just because somebody said so, may get you , well, into a "random" place.
Welcome to the experimenter's club.

[Mark Hammer]

The material and process used to make a cap will determine its final size, given its capacitance and voltage rating. If you look at boards from 40 years ago, you'll see that a lot of caps of the identical ratings were easily 5-8 times the size of their current counterparts. I can buy 100uf/35v caps these days that are smaller than 1uf/16v units from 40 years ago. If course, even with that shrinkage over the years, a 100uf/50v cap will be larger than a 35v unit, which will be larger than a 16v unit or a 6v one.

Why does this matter to you? Because if you are using layouts provided by other folks, the amount of space they allot for a cap is based around assumptions of its size. So a cap rated at a higher voltage may be perfectly acceptable for the circuit, but NOT for the layout; especially if it is a complex circuit intended to fit in a smaller chassis.

Having said that, the difference in price between 16v, 35v, and 50v ratings on some caps is much smaller than it once was. So, if a higher-voltage rating is available (or the only one in stock), and it fits the available space, go with it.

As noted, the voltage ratings will depend on the type of capacitor. Electrolytics will come in 16v, 35v, and 50v flavours, but other types, like ceramic or polyester or silver mica, will come in much broader, and higher-voltage distinctions.

The rule of thumb is generally to use caps rated at 1.5 to 2 times the maximum anticipated working voltage. With a 9v battery or wallwart, a 16v-rated cap generally meets that criterion, but since some folks like to experiment with higher supply voltages like 12 or even 15v, it is better to go with the next one up, whether that's 25v or 35v rating.

[dumbassbob]

Thanks, I am slowly learning. You guys are great.