Klemt Echolette S

[Kazooman]

Bloke:

Have a look at the picture I posted. As TransLucid said, the two aluminum cans to the right of the power transformer are the filter caps. Each can has two capacitors. There are two lugs on the bottom of the can and the housing is the common third (ground) terminal. There are similar cans available with the correct two caps in them, but the size is not the same (larger diameter). If you are going to replace the caps you have to be creative with terminal strips.

As was also mentioned, you can easily make your own tapes. Here is a link to a source (one of hundreds) for tape and splicing kits.

Splicit Reel Audio Products - reel to reel recording supplies

You can buy tapes that someone else has made on ebay, but you will be ahead if you invest the small amount to get your own kit. The length of the tapes is not absolutely critical, since there is a tensioning roller, but you should shoot for 20 1/8".

Note that when you power on the unit it acts as a preamp. When you press either of the buttons that activate the echo you do two major things. You turn on the drive motor and you energize the oscillator circuit. Either of these can generate the new noise you are hearing. You will need to track it down.

If you PM me with your email address I can provide a copy of the manual and the schematic.

[bloke]

Thanks Guys i will take it on, awesome help its really appreciated!!

[Fobert]

Hi,

Can anyone tell me what is the actual dimensions size of an pinch roller for a Klemt echolette NG51S, the one on my device is missing and i think i've just found a suitable replacement, Thanks guys !

[Fobert]

Hi,

Can anyone tell me what is the actual dimensions size of an pinch roller for a Klemt echolette NG51S, the one on my device is missing and i think i've just found a suitable replacement, Thanks guys !

[TransLucid]

I just measured one, and as best as I can tell, the OD is 1.9cm, the height is 1.2cm (although this is not as important), and the inner bushing hole diameter is 6mm.

[Kazooman]

I just measured four Using a good quality digital caliper.

Being here in the states, I used old fashioned english units.

All four rollers are 1/2" high. Two that appear to be originals measure 0.77 and 0.78 inches in diameter. Two that I had rebuilt measure 0.82 and 0.83 inches in diameter. Alll work just fine.

You need to be certain that the roller doesn't touch the capstan when the unit is off or when it is on without the echo engaged. Otherwise you can develop flat spots on the roller. There is certainly some wiggle room in the size of the pinch roller since there is a tensioning spring that holds it against the capstan.

[Fobert]

I just measured four Using a good quality digital caliper.

Being here in the states, I used old fashioned english units.

All four rollers are 1/2" high. Two that appear to be originals measure 0.77 and 0.78 inches in diameter. Two that I had rebuilt measure 0.82 and 0.83 inches in diameter. Alll work just fine.

You need to be certain that the roller doesn't touch the capstan when the unit is off or when it is on without the echo engaged. Otherwise you can develop flat spots on the roller. There is certainly some wiggle room in the size of the pinch roller since there is a tensioning spring that holds it against the capstan.

Thanks guys for the answer, Now i got anither issue....

it seem that i got no sound at all from the heads. The control from the left side all work volume, tone. But none of the center buttons there is no effect at all if i move them.
(by the way i changed the pinch roller now the tape is rolling so far for this part)

did anyone had this problem before is there a fuse that might be broken or something...??

Next step is a real tech i guess.


thanks for your times guys

[TransLucid]

This problem is not so simple to troubleshoot. Make sure you're operating the controls correctly, and if so, you'll need to follow the signal path from the heads to the output. There are several ways to do this, but all require some kind of test equipment.

By the way, in some cases the playback heads open (no signal), but for this to happen to both is fairly unlikely. The "short/long" switch connects and disconnects one of the playback heads (there are two) so make sure you try it on "short."

Bob

[spamunkulus]

In Echo Mode only 1 repro head is working. (#4, if this is your dead 16 MEG head)
Maybe you still don't have a schematic.
Schematic Echolette E51 (same as NG51 but with snubbing networks at
the motor switch, some people retrofit it on the NG51)
:

regards,

Tito

[spamunkulus]

My Repair sequence for the E51.

I would try to isolate the mechanical and electrical part/problems.

I start at the repro amp, bias generator off (tube removed).No tape installed.

A line test signal or better tone generator 1Vpp is fed to
the repro head via 1 nF and 1MEG (series).
due to the inductance of the head
this should result in a more or less flat frequency response at the output of the repro amp.

This signal takes his pass through the feedback pot to the record amp,
so the record amp might be checked that way as well.
The Repro head/channel which is not tested should be switched off by
grounding the plate of the first stage with a .1 uF capacitor.

Then check the input /mic amps (and again record amp)

Then check the bias oscillator.

Is the repro amp still working correctly, when the bias oscillator is on?

Then switch the bias off again and install a prerecorded tape loop with
a test tone.

Now check the signal at the first stage and do mechanical adjustments of the
repro heads. cleaning/polishing . Maybe the head gap is opening and the sound has no treble.

as well wow an flutter can be checked now.

When the repro section works I can put back the bias oscillator tube and check the recording.
The recorded signal of head 1 gets damped by head 2 and 3, that is normal.
For keeping it sounding halfway bright, head 1 is underbiased, the vaiable capacitor has a lower
value compared to head 2 and 3 . Biasing: see a service manual for Tape recorders like Revox A77.

I would not recommend to exchange too many (or maybe any) caps, when the unit is working properly.
I have old gear which I use very often and which is working perfectly- original caps, even electrolytics.
This is briefly my sequence of checking the E51 (NG51).


Tito

[Tevilspek]

Hey all,

Just joined up to the forum to say thank you to you all.

I received my NG 51 in the mail yesterday, am waiting on tapes to arrive from the UK though..! (Australia here)

Plugging it in, it has a fairly clean sound, but a lot of gain/overdrive with the input level on 50%.
I will try playing with the trim pots on the side and back I guess?

Thanks for the input from everyone's experiences. I look forward to getting into this unit!

[carloswolf]

klemt echolette. Mine is not working properly. Anyone has a manual in english, please

I got a unit from germany but no echo sound....it is not working properly. Anyone has a manual in english, please, so I can try to figure out if I am doing something wrong? My email address is: pastel@clix.pt
Any help would be really appreciated.

[Kazooman]

I got a unit from germany but no echo sound....it is not working properly. Anyone has a manual in english, please, so I can try to figure out if I am doing something wrong? My email address is: pastel@clix.pt
Any help would be really appreciated.

No echo could be due to a lot of things. I hope you are able to figure it out.

Watch your email for several messages.

[Kazooman]

No echo could be due to a lot of things. I hope you are able to figure it out.

Watch your email for several messages.

I tired to send the manual but the files are big. I broke it down into three messages but I got an error message back from each saying that the message is larger than the space in your mail folder.

[Mickey]

Having repaired several Echolette tape echos I have finally decided to understand fully the schematic. Unlike Charlie Watkins (Wem-Watkins Copicat) the designer of these tape echos is no longer with us so cannot get a detailed description of the function of each component. The component that intriques me is R57 in both the NG51 and the later E51 schematics, does it pass signal both ways? The in between S model appears to be an short stop upgrade which was virtually discontinued to make way for the E51. If I was a little more inclined I would disconnect one end of R57 in a E51 which I have on the bench but thought maybe someone out there may know more than I do, which wouldn't be difficult. Thanks, Mickey