Fuzz face from Musikding: no way to make it work.

[Jazz P Bass]

"The Law Of Series".
I Like that.
In my shop, in one day:
DVM lead went open.
On/Off switch on my table lamp broke.
Soldering iron cord went open.
Computer surge protector switch went bad.

[freefrog]

OK: got it to work finally.

Will explain later. No time right now.

All I can say: the problem didn't come from me but I've been forced to use MY parts to solve it. :-(

At least it works...

Main reason of this last post: a big THANK YOU to every poster above. You rock, gentlemen! :-)

[J M Fahey]

GOOD !!!!!
Anyway, we'd still want to know the solution to this mystery

[freefrog]

I'll explain the mystery.

For the moment, I'm waiting an answer from Musikding, in order to know what I can and must reveal here. :-)

[freefrog]

Well...

Am still busy but the problem has been doubly solved.

Not only I had found the problem in the previous kit BUT...

...Klaus Brunner (Musikding) has sent me FOR FREE a new PCB + parts. In a few minutes the whole was mounted and worked like a charm.

Mister Brunner from Muskiding, thank you and kudos: although your kits aren't expensive, you respect your customers and it has to be said!

For those who wonder what was the problem...

it was a resistor which didn't match (at all) its "facial value". As my multimeter was (and is still) derailing, I hadn't got it...

Furthermore, the 10k trim pot was derailing too.

The new PCB + parts are flawless.

Happy end. :-)

[J M Fahey]

Good! Congratulations!
What were the color bands and what was the actual value?

[freefrog]

Good! Congratulations!
What were the color bands and what was the actual value?

The resistors in the kit had each a sticker with a value. The one labelled "330" (ohm) was actually a 330 K... and it wasn't visually obvious. I guess that's why an error had been done at Musikding...

[J M Fahey]

Interesting.
TheVelleman kits (and many others), in their instruction booklet state values both ways, so the builder gets more used to the color codes.
In this case they would have written :
"Rxx : 330 ohms, orange-orange-brown-gold or whatever's appropriate.
It sure helps.

[freefrog]

Interesting.
TheVelleman kits (and many others), in their instruction booklet state values both ways, so the builder gets more used to the color codes.
In this case they would have written :
"Rxx : 330 ohms, orange-orange-brown-gold or whatever's appropriate.
It sure helps.

In some cases, a worn yellow can be seen as a faded brown. That's what I meant when I've said that the difference wasn't visually obvious. :-)
You make me wonder retrospectively if I'm not becoming daltonian... :-))

[J M Fahey]

Not necessarily.
It depends somewhat on the background.
Color contrast is very important.
I neverhave problems with greenish background resistors, or light blue metal films, but with common light tan ones, sometimes I find orange and red (as a multiplier/3rd band) quite similar.
Now I've never mixed 22 with 33, maybe there is a threshold above which my visual decoder works better.
This problem deserves a thread all of its own, if somebody has something intreresting to add.