Yamaha DG Stomp Problem

[PremiumPlus]

I had problems with my DG Stomp too. I traded it for a '69 Fender Bassman head. Problem solved!

[guitdenis]

problems saving the DG stomp

My DG Stomp was not saving. On the screen appeared the message E-5. According to the manual, this message is low battery.
I changed the battery and the message disappeared, but now, when you turn the flash LEDs like to reset. He does not save the presets. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Sorry for some mistakes in words, I'm Brazilian.

[edge59]

I picked up a used DG stomp in good physical condition, but the E 5 comes up, so I will change the battery, was wondering if it might cause the mono output to be static noise? The Right side output is fine, no static noise. Anyone have any ideas? Thank you for any input!

Ed

[jpeltsi]

dg stomp enters eternal blinking loop when storing patch

Hi,
my trustworhthy 16 year old device is starting to give up

It works just fine for about half an hour. Then when I try to store a patch it just start blinking all leds and the display. There is no sound and controls do not affect the behaviour of the device. I have to switch it off.

If I try to start it after half a minute it continues with flashing leds and display. But if I let it be half an hour powerless it is working perfectly again.

I guess it has something to do with heat: bad connection, dried electrolyte condensator (they are many but they look good) etc. I checked the regulators as well and they seem work fine.

Does anyone has ideas how to solve this please?

[edge59]

Hi,
my trustworhthy 16 year old device is starting to give up

It works just fine for about half an hour. Then when I try to store a patch it just start blinking all leds and the display. There is no sound and controls do not affect the behaviour of the device. I have to switch it off.

If I try to start it after half a minute it continues with flashing leds and display. But if I let it be half an hour powerless it is working perfectly again.

I guess it has something to do with heat: bad connection, dried electrolyte condensator (they are many but they look good) etc. I checked the regulators as well and they seem work fine.

Does anyone has ideas how to solve this please?

Well I changed the quarter sized battery, but beware, you MUST change it with the unit powered ON! Or you will lose all your programs. Be extra careful to not short anything when doing this. The battery should fix the problem, if you have not tried it already. Great pedal and tones, I use mine in the Crunch 1 mode set clean or turn off the amp modeling at times depending if I am using a tube amp (usually turn off modeling), a solid state (always use modeling) amp or PA. (modeling and SIM on). Years ago I used the Lead 2 which is based on a Mesa IIC+ and recorded with the SIM on direct to my computer, it sounded decent considering. But I prefer to set the model mild, at the verge of breakup, that sweet spot, you know? Then use my favorite overdrive for lead tones, works great! Just re-read you post, if the unit stops working still after the battery has been changed, could be a power supply issue. Does it get warmer than usual? Maybe one of the regulator transistors is going or an electrolytic cap. E-caps should be changed every so often and there's a crap load of them in there. It would improve the tone as well like in a tube amp. I changed out some electrolytic caps in a Peavey Bandit and Special, what a difference, the owner was amazed as was I!
Ed
goforthsound@yahoo.com

[jpeltsi]

Well I changed the quarter sized battery, but beware, you MUST change it with the unit powered ON! Or you will lose all your programs. Be extra careful to not short anything when doing this. The battery should fix the problem, if you have not tried it already. Great pedal and tones, I use mine in the Crunch 1 mode set clean or turn off the amp modeling at times depending if I am using a tube amp (usually turn off modeling), a solid state (always use modeling) amp or PA. (modeling and SIM on). Years ago I used the Lead 2 which is based on a Mesa IIC+ and recorded with the SIM on direct to my computer, it sounded decent considering. But I prefer to set the model mild, at the verge of breakup, that sweet spot, you know? Then use my favorite overdrive for lead tones, works great! Just re-read you post, if the unit stops working still after the battery has been changed, could be a power supply issue. Does it get warmer than usual? Maybe one of the regulator transistors is going or an electrolytic cap. E-caps should be changed every so often and there's a crap load of them in there. It would improve the tone as well like in a tube amp. I changed out some electrolytic caps in a Peavey Bandit and Special, what a difference, the owner was amazed as was I!
Ed
goforthsound@yahoo.com

Thanks for your answer! I changed the battery and I checked the five regulators outputs to be in range both when the unit is working and blinking. It it vulnerable to start blinking especially when using store function several times: e-caps could be going or then it is something more severe with mainboard busses, CPU and SRAM.

I have been very happy with the device till now: cleans and crunch especially compared with the rivals. But I have used all models, lately more and more as a spare unit for an all analog rig. But I'm starting to be a bit lazy to drag the heavy load with me so I figured why not go with DG only in rehearsals.
Changing all caps takes maybe 1-2 hours and I hate to do it if the fault is still there after the job . If I go this way I have to backup settings to computer even this device is pretty fast to tweek.

[edge59]

Hopefully it is the simpler to resolve Too bad companies make a great piece of gear and discontinue it. I also have a Magic Stop II, that is great for more ambient effects, pitch shifting and amazing reverbs and delays, ring modulator etc. Allan Holdsworth used several of them at once, but now he is using the Axe Fx II. I had the Ultra, but when they quit supporting it, I was discouraged and sold it. It was a great effects unit, The amp models were not quite doing it for me, though really close, I found the Magic Stomp II could achieve some really organic overdrive and amps sounds that I liked better overall. The Axe Fx II is suppose to be a lot better but I have not heard anything that's that much better. The only guy I know is Larry Mitchell, he can get killer tone from the Axe II! I found just finding an amp model (all clean models are awesome, its the overdriven amp models that I am having issues with. Using a slightly overdriven amp model with a good overdrive pedal thats analog got me closer to what I was looking for but Im kicking myself for letting it go Maybe someday I will pickup the II, but the Yamaha has some very warm, musical sounding products, and is very easy to lug around I understand the programmer programmed by ear and had input from Holdsworth that made an excellent product that still holds its own next to todays gear. Please let me know how it turns out for you, the electrolytics are my first guess or maybe a resistor is drifting out of tolerance after it warms up, this happens with a lot with electronics as you may know. Do you have a schematic? I think I have a file I could send you if you don't have one.

Ed
goforthsound@yahoo.com

[DrGonz78]

http://bmamps.com/Schematics/Yamaha/DG-Stomp_E.pdf

Here it is for the sake of posting.

[edge59]

http://bmamps.com/Schematics/Yamaha/DG-Stomp_E.pdf

Here it is for the sake of posting.

Great! Thank you kind sir!