Boss Wall Wart Repair (PSA-120t)

[Andrew M]

It has a intermittent break right where the wire leaves the wall wart. Is is possible to open it? I removed the two screws on the back, but I still can't open it. I hate to just throw it away. Any ideas?

Thanks
Andrew.

[sportster4eva]

Most of those wall wart supplies are welded at the seam, probably by heat or a solvent glue, and the only way to get them open is to carefully cut them. You may be able to get a thin blade in and pry it open, but sometimes that can make a mess out of the case. I have an old soldering iron that has interchangeable tips, and i took one of the tips and flattened it into a blade. It makes a decent plastic cutter if you take your time. You could clamp it in a vise and cut at the seam with a hacksaw, slowly and carefully around the whole thing. The only thing is getting it back together. Thats where the "hot knife" works the best. Use it like a spatula and melt the two halves back together, using the displaced plastic in the seam you cut.

Or you could just toss it and get one of these. This is the best thing for powering pedals. Dead quiet, and it comes with a bunch of cables.
This place seems to have the best price.

http://www.stevesmusiccenter.com/Switchmode.html

[R.G.]

...
Or you could just toss it and get one of these. This is the best thing for powering pedals. Dead quiet, and it comes with a bunch of cables.
This place seems to have the best price.

Then again you could go find a 1Spot: 1Spot.
This is the combo pack with the assorted oddments.

A 1Spot by itself lists at $24.95, but you can often find a dealer in a good mood and get one for less than that.

I know for a fact that all 1Spots are individually tested for performance and noise on a high gain distortion pedal before they leave the factory. I don't know that's true of any other such pedal.

[sportster4eva]

Then again you could go find a 1Spot: 1Spot.
This is the combo pack with the assorted oddments.

A 1Spot by itself lists at $24.95, but you can often find a dealer in a good mood and get one for less than that.

I know for a fact that all 1Spots are individually tested for performance and noise on a high gain distortion pedal before they leave the factory. I don't know that's true of any other such pedal.

Even Better! I wasn't aware that there were other companies making this type of power supply. Costs less, fully tested... wish I knew about it two years ago.

[R.G.]

Yeah, it's funny - Visual Sound premiered the 1Spot at a NAMM (National Association of Music Merchandisers) show in Anaheim one year. Godlyke's booth was quite near the Visual Sound booth. Godlyke showed up with theirs at the next NAMM.

Probably just convergent evolution, right?

[sportster4eva]

Point well taken. I wonder if one of the folks from Godlyke boght a 1spot "for his pedalboard"?

[dpresley58]

[QUOTE=Andrew M;24381]It has a intermittent break right where the wire leaves the wall wart. Is is possible to open it? I removed the two screws on the back, but I still can't open it. I hate to just throw it away. Any ideas?
QUOTE]

Odd you should mention that particular symptom. I had one on the bench a few weeks back that I fixed twice for that same thing, and the leads were the first culprit I suspected. The only trouble was it only fixed it for a short time. Needless to say what started out as a quick problem to repair became a bit more perplexing when the owner brought it -back-.

Come to find out, a pad had partially lifted back by the transformer. I had to make a small jumper from where it should be on to the next component. Look for a discoloration back there to see if this may be at least contributing to your problem.

To answer your question directly, though, I opened it using a small Exacto saw.

[Enzo]

An Xacto saw would work, didn't think of that. I'd be using my Dremel with a little round saw blade in it.

[R.G.]

Small cases like this are usually ultrasonically welded or solvent bonded. The case has some flex, the bond less flex. If you put a thin wooden edge along the seam and whack it hard enough to flex the case but not break the case, the weld usually breaks and you get the case open with a minimum of fuss. The Boss case with screws even lets you put it back together, which is not the case with other cases.

er... just in case... 8-)

[petemoore]

..

Prying with stiff and possibly sharp instruments, on a non-square [or even small square] box...just be certain to keep any human parts away for a slipping prybar.
I got a VS-1, and another VS-1 because the first worked so good and I had use for another...I just chuck power supplies unless it's the wire/plug causing the problem...I smashed my way into a WW once...it wasn't that fun or interesting anyway.

[jimi]

I had this exact thing with a BOSS PSU I cut it open with an exacto saw fixed it and glued it back together with epoxy.

[Mark Black]

I've had pretty good luck over the years by holding the wart in my left hand & banging all along the seam and just above it with a smooth-faced hammer. A small ball-pein works well. The hand-holding seems to help keep the blows from actually cracking the plastic sides while transferring enough flex and vibration to crack the more brittle glue bond (eventually - it usually takes quite a bit of rapping with the hammer).

I probably get about an 80% success rate with this method, and when it fails I usually resort to judicious use of a hacksaw or chuck & replace.

On successful repair I usually reassemble without glue, using theatrical gaffer tape to hold it together until the next (inevitable) failure.

All that having been said I typically reserve that kind of kludge for my own stuff (geez I'm a cheap bastard) or an emergency fix for a customer when no replacement is available.