Absolute worst case, measure polarity.
Turn pedal ON, and measure voltage across each suspect cap legs.
Not a huge voltage, but youŽll find anything from, say, 0.5V to 5V between them; mark the more negtive one with a visible marker pen dot.
Mind you, leg to leg voltage, not leg to ground which here is irrelevant.
After you marked all of them, desolder old ones and place new electrolytics there.
As of the pot; lacking the Reverse Log one (C3 curve) , the "least worst" one is a linear pot, which to boot is easy to find, and the absolute worst one is an Audio/Log type which will be all but unusable.
As of your symptoms, all oscillators need a minimum positive feedback to work or they wonŽt even start; here parts value drift or pot destruction (or both) must have decreased down that positive feedback to the bare minimum, so oscillator is "lazy" and slow to start (if at all); now active components (Op Amps) do not degrade, so replacing worn passives will restore pedal to full glory.
Turn pedal ON, and measure voltage across each suspect cap legs.
Not a huge voltage, but youŽll find anything from, say, 0.5V to 5V between them; mark the more negtive one with a visible marker pen dot.
Mind you, leg to leg voltage, not leg to ground which here is irrelevant.
After you marked all of them, desolder old ones and place new electrolytics there.
As of the pot; lacking the Reverse Log one (C3 curve) , the "least worst" one is a linear pot, which to boot is easy to find, and the absolute worst one is an Audio/Log type which will be all but unusable.
As of your symptoms, all oscillators need a minimum positive feedback to work or they wonŽt even start; here parts value drift or pot destruction (or both) must have decreased down that positive feedback to the bare minimum, so oscillator is "lazy" and slow to start (if at all); now active components (Op Amps) do not degrade, so replacing worn passives will restore pedal to full glory.
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