Maestro fuzztain miniature lamps

[pontiacpete]

Does anyone know where I can find these small light bulbs?

[nickb]

I would replace with a led and a 1k series resistor. Less power, lasts longer, cheaper and I have loads in my parts drawer.

[darkfenriz]

Hint- Christmas approaching

[pontiacpete]

Thanks Nickb!
Off this topic a bit, but does anyone know what I can use to replace the 1/8" power jack. It's giving me all sorts trouble

[pontiacpete]

I did think of that but all my christmas lights are some color other than white.
The LED is working nicely, though

[52 Bill]

Thanks Nickb!
Off this topic a bit, but does anyone know what I can use to replace the 1/8" power jack. It's giving me all sorts trouble

It looks like there is more than enough room for a stereo headphone jack in there. You only need one normally closed switch, so just ignore the secondone.

[pontiacpete]

I'm still having trouble with this power input jack. I bought this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-3-5mm-...=STRK:MEAFB:IT
If you scroll through the pictures, there's a schematic of the jack.
The problem I'm having is that there is only one tip connection. The original has 2 tip connection and one has the switch. The one without turns the lights on when plugging into a power supply. Lights are not suppose to work with battery. I tried wiring the the wire that goes to the darlington which powers the lights. With the battery the side lights are on all the time(which might not be so bad if they don't eat the battery).
Is there a plug out there that will work like the original or is there a better way of doing this with a difference jack?
Here's a picture of the original

[nickb]

I'm still having trouble with this power input jack. I bought this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-3-5mm-...=STRK:MEAFB:IT
If you scroll through the pictures, there's a schematic of the jack.
The problem I'm having is that there is only one tip connection. The original has 2 tip connection and one has the switch. The one without turns the lights on when plugging into a power supply. Lights are not suppose to work with battery. I tried wiring the the wire that goes to the darlington which powers the lights. With the battery the side lights are on all the time(which might not be so bad if they don't eat the battery).
Is there a plug out there that will work like the original or is there a better way of doing this with a difference jack?
Here's a picture of the original

Without knowing how the original was wired it's pretty hard to say. Go back and look as how it was done and copy that.

If I had to make a WAG: In the original, it looks like one contact on the tip opens when the plug is inserted - I guess this would be for the battery isolation. Those would be pins 4 and 5, 4 = battery, 5 = power to board. A second connection is formed from the sleeve to the ring when the plug is in and I'd guess this is for the lights. That's pins 1 and 2 1= power to board and 2 - lights.

[pontiacpete]

Here are a couple of photos that show how the original jack has two tip connections. There is no ring connection as shown in the schematic. The other picture shows how pin 2 of the new jack actually connects to the sleeve which grounds the voltage needed for the lights.

[nickb]

Here are a couple of photos that show how the original jack has two tip connections. There is no ring connection as shown in the schematic. The other picture shows how pin 2 of the new jack actually connects to the sleeve which grounds the voltage needed for the lights.

Nice piccie!

Yes, I think you are right. It would appear that there was one switch contact that closed and another that opened. In effect a SPDT switch with the tip being the common. That means the socket you bought won't work. I wonder if the original just needed a good dose of contact cleaner? Failing that if you now have an LED then the current consumption is much less than it used to be so it won't be such a problem.

[g1]

The schematic is just showing a ring where it should show a second tip.
Like nick said, the only reason they used that is so the bulbs would not drain the battery. From what I can see, it looks like the bulbs would not be in use when on battery power.
You are not using battery, or like nick says, it shouldn't matter anymore because of low power led's, so just wire those 2 tips (shown as tip and ring) together.

[g1]

This pic shows under "battery operation" that none of the lights will work. All that circuitry around L1 & L2 are for ripple reduction to prevent lamp flicker from the supply.

[nickb]

The schematic is just showing a ring where it should show a second tip.
Like nick said, the only reason they used that is so the bulbs would not drain the battery. From what I can see, it looks like the bulbs would not be in use when on battery power.
You are not using battery, or like nick says, it shouldn't matter anymore because of low power led's, so just wire those 2 tips (shown as tip and ring) together.

I feel like a dope. I didn't know there was a schematic posted...

I think the was it works is as I said above i.e. a SPDT contact. The schematic is drawn as though there is a ring contact - there isn't one so it's misleading.

[pontiacpete]

The problem with the original jack was the shorting switch. I tried to clean, scrap and crimp it with no luck. With a 1/4" shorting jack this is a lot easier to do, this one is pretty small and not so easy.
You made a good point about current consumption with the LED. I will install another LED(there are 2 lights under large pot knobs/wheels, one for each pot).
Damn that was my last white LED. Got to order more.
Thanks for the help guys!!