Please Help !!! fixing a Tone Bone Plexitube Distortion Pedal

[Iddo]

Hi,
I've connected my ToneBone plexitube Hot British Distortion Pedal to a MOOER PowerBank.
first to the 15V and the power bank shut off.
then i've tried connecting it to the 12V and after a few seconds smoke came out.
Upon inspection it seems that only the capacitor got burnt -
I'm hoping that it is only a matter of replacing this capacitor.
However because it is burnt i can't know what capacitor to buy.
the capacitor definitely looks burnt but it tweets on continuity check in the multimeter.
I don't know much about electronics and can't figure out what to do. the schematics for other products don't realy help me -
The capacitor is C21 in the Plexitube Hot British Rev 0A 29-8.
I'm hoping someone here can help me figure out this otherwise I'd have to go to a propper lab to get it fixed.
I've sent a help request to Radial Engineering Hoping they'd help me.
Thank you.

[nosaj]

Hi,
I've connected my ToneBone plexitube Hot British Distortion Pedal to a MOOER PowerBank.
first to the 15V and the power bank shut off.
then i've tried connecting it to the 12V and after a few seconds smoke came out.
Upon inspection it seems that only the capacitor got burnt -
I'm hoping that it is only a matter of replacing this capacitor.
However because it is burnt i can't know what capacitor to buy.
the capacitor definitely looks burnt but it tweets on continuity check in the multimeter.
I don't know much about electronics and can't figure out what to do. the schematics for other products don't realy help me -
The capacitor is C21 in the Plexitube Hot British Rev 0A 29-8.
I'm hoping someone here can help me figure out this otherwise I'd have to go to a propper lab to get it fixed.
I've sent a help request to Radial Engineering Hoping they'd help me.
Thank you.

Lets have some pics of the pcb please.

nosaj
Only schematic I could find.
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/ton...ot_british.pdf

[g1]

Near as I can tell, the tonebone wants 15V, tip positive. The MOOER supply is tip negative, so it is the wrong polarity for this pedal.
Most likely components that got fried are shown as D1 and C27A on the schematic posted by nosaj.

[nosaj]

Near as I can tell, the tonebone wants 15V, tip positive. The MOOER supply is tip negative, so it is the wrong polarity for this pedal.
Most likely components that got fried are shown as D1 and C27A on the schematic posted by nosaj.

I was kinda thinking that might've been a possibility but didn't get to researching the mooer.

nosaj

[Iddo]

PICS

thanks for the quick reply.
here are the pics
https://ibb.co/QQc6ytq
to the left between the DC in Jack and the potentiometer is the burnt capacitor
also below the 4th potentiometer from the right there is something that might be burnt plastic which i haven't noticed at the begining.
a pic of the small plastic blob https://ibb.co/x1rZ9Q8
to the left of the dc jack the burnt capacitor https://ibb.co/b6kPBnG
does anyone know if i'm elligible for warranty after making such a stupid mistake ? it's brand new and i barely used it.

i also ask if i can use continuity check on a powered on board like this or is it too risky ?
do capacitors and resistors respond to a continuity check ?

Thanks for the support very much appreciated.

[Iddo]

yes your'e right. the funny thing is that when connecting to 12v the mooer didn't shut down while in 15v it did. the polarity is the opposite to boss effects which work fine. such a stupid mistake. lesson learned the hard way.
Thank you for the reply - much appreciated.

[Iddo]

the c27a says 47/16 - what does that mean ? what should i ask for in the store ?
also the diode D1 - should i just ask for a 1N4001 diode ?
how do i know which way to connect the capacitor - the black and white on the schematic what is the positive and what is the negative ?
also how do i tell the positive and negative on the newly purchased capacitor ?
i apologize for asking such novice questions but all i know about electronics is from a fourth grade hobby course. :-)
thanks.

[nosaj]

thanks for the quick reply.
here are the pics
https://ibb.co/QQc6ytq
to the left between the DC in Jack and the potentiometer is the burnt capacitor
also below the 4th potentiometer from the right there is something that might be burnt plastic which i haven't noticed at the begining.
a pic of the small plastic blob https://ibb.co/x1rZ9Q8
to the left of the dc jack the burnt capacitor https://ibb.co/b6kPBnG
does anyone know if i'm elligible for warranty after making such a stupid mistake ? it's brand new and i barely used it.

i also ask if i can use continuity check on a powered on board like this or is it too risky ?
do capacitors and resistors respond to a continuity check ?

Thanks for the support very much appreciated.

The piece of black plastic your reference is most likely the outer sheath of the capcaitor.
Warranty, not likely.
Continuity check on a powered board? Don't even think about it, Now with no power connected then yes it's ok, just don't plug it in. When it's powered you will use the voltage portion of the meter.

nosaj
Depending on the DVM resistors will up to a point choose Ohms and verify by the stripe code.

[nosaj]

the c27a says 47/16 - what does that mean ? what should i ask for in the store ?
also the diode D1 - should i just ask for a 1N4001 diode ?
how do i know which way to connect the capacitor - the black and white on the schematic what is the positive and what is the negative ?
also how do i tell the positive and negative on the newly purchased capacitor ?
i apologize for asking such novice questions but all i know about electronics is from a fourth grade hobby course. :-)
thanks.

47uf 16v Which means the caps are riding on the edge, I'd at least put in a 25v. Probably easier to get a 1n4007 which will work the same.

How else you gonna learn if you don't ask?

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
nosaj

[Iddo]

Thanks nosaj i really appreciate the help. i am afraid of touching the board but it seems that i have no choice. i have a 65W soldering iron and i ordered one with thermal control. what temperature should i use so i don't do more damage ?
I'll wait a couple of days and see if i get an answer from Radial.

[nosaj]

Thanks nosaj i really appreciate the help. i am afraid of touching the board but it seems that i have no choice. i have a 65W soldering iron and i ordered one with thermal control. what temperature should i use so i don't do more damage ?
I'll wait a couple of days and see if i get an answer from Radial.

Since this will be your first foray.. please go find a broken electronic device somewhere, open it up and start removing things. My iron uses Celcius I usually have mine set around 390-400C , I will also use some new solder to wet what I want to remove it seems to make it easier to remove when using a solder sucker. Solder wick I've never successfully used so I can't comment on that.
Always practice something new first on a donor.


nosaj

[Iddo]

yes i've started practicing.
radial just answered me - "
I am sorry to hear about your Plexitube. All Radial and Tonebone devices that require our 15V power supply are all fed with a center-pin positive polarity.
The Mooer power supply supplies center-pin negative polarity only—it sounds as if you fed your Plexitube with the incorrect polarity.
The capacitor at C21 is a 10µF 35V tantalum capacitor.
Further, I spoke with my service technician about your Plexitube. He recommended changing the diode at D1 as well since this occurred. The diode is a 1N4001 diode."
so g1 got it right with the diode.
i'm not sure how to deal with the black blob thing - either try to remove the blob without damagin the board from above or desoldering from below and then taking out the blob mass - lol
Thanks again

[nosaj]

yes i've started practicing.
radial just answered me - "
I am sorry to hear about your Plexitube. All Radial and Tonebone devices that require our 15V power supply are all fed with a center-pin positive polarity.
The Mooer power supply supplies center-pin negative polarity only—it sounds as if you fed your Plexitube with the incorrect polarity.
The capacitor at C21 is a 10µF 35V tantalum capacitor.
Further, I spoke with my service technician about your Plexitube. He recommended changing the diode at D1 as well since this occurred. The diode is a 1N4001 diode."
so g1 got it right with the diode.
i'm not sure how to deal with the black blob thing - either try to remove the blob without damagin the board from above or desoldering from below and then taking out the blob mass - lol
Thanks again

Based on that it probably stands to reason the schematic I posted is not the same as your board.
nosaj

[52 Bill]

Do you have a multimeter that can test diodes?

The burnt yellow cap next to the power jack is definitely a tantalum cap, so get one like they told you, to replace it. The board will probably be marked with a polarity marking to show you how to install the new one. The new cap will have a polarity marking on it or at least the two leads will be of different lengths to show the polarity.

The black blob is epoxy or encapsulation medium put on the board to cover up part of the circuit that the manufacturer does not want people to see. You probably will not need to do anything with it, in order to fix the pedal.

[Iddo]

i'm so relieved to hear that. so i hope this should be quite an easy repair. that was my initial thought but then my mind started going for worst case scenarios. :-)
Thanks Bill