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Vintage Morley Power Wah Doesn't Always "Wah"
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Regarding your question about the photocell position relative to the 'curtain'; as you say, it was working fine before. So if it has not been moved be careful not to move it, as they can be troublesome to get right.
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Originally posted by dmeek View PostThey look yellowish to me, maybe they're white.
https://music-electronics-forum.com/...1&d=1582672181
galaxiex - Ok. Makes sense and sounds like a good plan to me and seems like there's a consensus that these capacitors need to be replaced. Thank you for your input.
Thanks everyone!
LL
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They look yellowish to me, maybe they're white.
https://music-electronics-forum.com/...1&d=1582672181
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Originally posted by louloomis View Postdmeek - Ok. I only see 1 yellow disc capacitor. Did you mean that or the whitish cylindrical capacitors standing upright at angle?
galaxiex - Ok. The capactors are bad you think. In terms of its vintage, it is "Morley" but has the "Tel-Ray" name and address also on the metal Morley nameplate. Maybe it's late 1970s or very early 1980s?
shortcircuit - Thanks. NP at all about the pics. No impoliteness was intended in my wording, sorry if it came off that way. Thank you for your input. Ok, photocell is good. Yes, the bulb is good - just purchased it and it shines brightly. No insult taken, of course. Always good to ask. I think the exact model is "PWO". I plan to do the chopstik test, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.
Thanks.
LL
My guess is those small CSA electro caps are the most likely culprit.
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dmeek - Ok. I only see 1 yellow disc capacitor. Did you mean that or the whitish cylindrical capacitors standing upright at angle?
galaxiex - Ok. The capactors are bad you think. In terms of its vintage, it is "Morley" but has the "Tel-Ray" name and address also on the metal Morley nameplate. Maybe it's late 1970s or very early 1980s?
shortcircuit - Thanks. NP at all about the pics. No impoliteness was intended in my wording, sorry if it came off that way. Thank you for your input. Ok, photocell is good. Yes, the bulb is good - just purchased it and it shines brightly. No insult taken, of course. Always good to ask. I think the exact model is "PWO". I plan to do the chopstik test, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.
Thanks.
LL
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OK great on the pics, my apologies . Yes I'd say P-cell is good, those readings seem about right. No insult intended the bulb is good correct ?? I would plug it all in, get someone to run the treadle and strum while you poke around with a chopstick, see if you get any results , again checking for loose connections. Can you get the exact model of pedal ?? a schematic ?
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My vote would be that some/all of those electrolytic caps are well past their prime.
How "vintage" is it? Any idea what year it was made?
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My best guess is that one or more of the small yellow electrolytic caps is bad.
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No, these are not generic pictures. They are pictures I just took of the pedal I actually own so that I could upload them to this thread.
Yes, I have a multimeter and I also have alligator clips. I just did the test you requested. Here are the results:
1. With my light off and my hand almost entirely covering the photocell, the multimeter read like 1.5M ohms (if I shielded the photocell entirely with my hand it went to "0F".
2. With my light on the photocell, the multimeter read 257 ohms (not M or K).
I assume this means that my photocell works, true?
Thanks again.
LL
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thanks for the pics , but these are generic pics not the actual pics of your device ?? actual pics might be of more help.
do you have a multi-meter?? If yes ,
Turn the multimeter on, and place it on the setting for resistance. If the multimeter is not auto-ranging, change the knob to a very high level, such as megaohms.
Place the red probe of the multimeter on one leg of the photocell, and the black probe on the other. The direction does not matter. You may need to use alligator clips to make sure that the probes do not slip from the photocell’s leads.
Shield the photocell so that no light falls on it. Do this by placing your hand over it or by covering it, for example. The resistance should be very high. Uncover the photocell and shine a bright light on the photocell the resistance should drop. That should at least tell you if the photocell is functioning. If you can do this, please write down your ohms readings.Last edited by shortcircuit; 02-25-2020, 08:42 PM.
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can you provide any pics ??? Have you double checked for loose components, bad solder joints ??
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Originally posted by Helmholtz View PostNo reason for DeoxIt, as its no metal or electrical contact. A little warm soapy water applied on a Q-Tip should do. Dry with a tissue. Or use isopropanol.
Use DeoxIt on the jacks, though.
But as your problem is intermittent, there might be something else.
I realize now that what I am hearing is actually a very, very weak "wah" effect, not a weak volume pedal effect as I originally described. I think I perceived the volume as changing simply because there was more treble in the "toe down" position on the treadle. It's actually a faint "wah" effect, but so faint that I really didn't hear it. However, the full "wah" effect is no longer intermittent, it appears to be gone, so I guess the issue is worse.
Any ideas about what I should look at next in terms of a solution?
One thing I noticed is that, in the "toe down" position on the treadle, the top of the photocell is pretty much even with the top of the "curtain". Is this correct? I assume it is because when the issue was intermittent, the "wah" effect sounded great and the position of the "curtain" was the same as it is now.
Thanks.
LL
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Do I clean the photocell with De-Oxit or? What do you recommend?
Use DeoxIt on the jacks, though.
But as your problem is intermittent, there might be something else.Last edited by Helmholtz; 02-25-2020, 03:52 PM.
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Originally posted by louloomis View PostGood idea. I see where the photocell is. Do I clean the photocell with De-Oxit or? What do you recommend?
Thanks.
LL
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