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Digitech Whammy IV overheating issue - HELP?

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  • Digitech Whammy IV overheating issue - HELP?

    Components in my Whammy are overheating and I don't really know what I'm doing. Apologies if I'm in the wrong area or just generally ill informed - I'm just trying to figure out a solution to what seems like a solvable problem.

    When I turn on my Whammy (using recalibration mode - ie holding down the footswitch as I plug it in) it will work perfectly for a few minutes. Then it will blink off and become unresponsive. If I reset again, it will work again, but then die again but faster. To me, with very little knowledge in the area, it implies that the more computery elements are intact, but the issue is probably to do with overheating (given the accelerated fail time on subsequent attempts)

    Having searched various forums, I came across a few possibilities, which I checked.

    (1) Check for shorting against the casing: this doesn't appear to be happening - still happens when the circuit board is separated from the casing, and the interior of the casing has been covered in duct tape, I'm guessing cos digitech were aware of that potential issue.

    (2) Check if any of the three 1000uF 16v capacitors are swollen - to my eye it does appear that there is some damage to the top of the C3 capacitor, but it's not swollen and there's no spillage (see attached images). Having said that, can someone who knows anything about this confirm whether this might be the issue/part of the issue?

    (3) When it dies, check for overheating elements - whenever it dies the U1 and U2 elements are very hot. Does anyone know if this means it's an issue with those elements specifically or if that issue could be stemming from something else, for example the potential issue with the C3 capacitor.

    Apologies if this is all really obvious stuff, or if I'm using the wrong terminology - I'm just trying to solve a problem and am appreciative of any and all expertise you can throw my way.

    Noel
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Can't tell 100% from the picture, but it looks like that cap split open. Is that the case? If it is, replace it.
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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    • #3
      Looks like a swipe of blue colored sharpie. But it looks weird.
      When the going gets weird... The weird turn pro!

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      • #4
        Before you replace the capacitor, which may be OK as these rarely fail, check the voltage drop across diodes D1, D2, D3, D4. They'll probably read fine with a DMM so need to be checked with the circuit powered. They're all in series with L1, so the easiest way to check D1 is to put one probe on L1 pad and measure with your DMM in voltage mode to the pad marked D1. Then D1 pad to D2, etc. Each should measure around 0.6v, but I'm thinking one or more are dropping more voltage under load. I've seen this a few times when I've had these in for repair.

        It's usual for the regulators to run hot.

        My thought is that when you turn the pedal on the 3.3v supplied to the processor regulator via the diode string is dropping and resetting the processor. The flashing LED is an under-voltage indication. As the components warm up there's a shorter time before the voltage drops.

        digitech_whammy_4_sch.pdf

        Last edited by Mick Bailey; 03-27-2024, 12:46 PM. Reason: Edit: added schematic

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        • #5
          Originally posted by The Dude View Post
          Can't tell 100% from the picture, but it looks like that cap split open. Is that the case? If it is, replace it.
          Turns out, on closer inspection, it's not damaged just marked - it did seem a bit weird for it to do die in such a civilised manner...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by DrGonz78 View Post
            Looks like a swipe of blue colored sharpie. But it looks weird.
            Sharpie was bang on either fortunately or unfortunately

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Mick Bailey View Post
              Before you replace the capacitor, which may be OK as these rarely fail, check the voltage drop across diodes D1, D2, D3, D4. They'll probably read fine with a DMM so need to be checked with the circuit powered. They're all in series with L1, so the easiest way to check D1 is to put one probe on L1 pad and measure with your DMM in voltage mode to the pad marked D1. Then D1 pad to D2, etc. Each should measure around 0.6v, but I'm thinking one or more are dropping more voltage under load. I've seen this a few times when I've had these in for repair.

              It's usual for the regulators to run hot.

              My thought is that when you turn the pedal on the 3.3v supplied to the processor regulator via the diode string is dropping and resetting the processor. The flashing LED is an under-voltage indication. As the components warm up there's a shorter time before the voltage drops.

              [ATTACH]n996600[/ATTACH]
              Thanks so much for the amount of detail here - I'm gonna run through these and will let you know how it turns out!

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