Black Charvel Logo Needed

[Dave N.]

Hey Folks,

I wanted to see if any one knows where to get a old style Charvel waterslide decal headstock from?

I have an old Charvel neck I want to restore but the logo got ruined when I stripped the finish and the stripper accidently dripped on the front of the headstock and messed it up.

Thanks

Dave

[jrfrond]

http://www.best-decals.com/index.php...66327659dfc0f3

It's not waterslide, it's adhesive vinyl, but it was the best I could find for the San Dimas clone I am currently building. There might be someone making a waterslide, but I couldn't find one.

[Jag]

If you can find a reasonable image of the logo, you can use the Testers Decal paper to make your own. That's what my brother and I do to mkae headstock logos for our designs. http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/de...es_decal.shtml

[Dave N.]

Thanks for the info guys.

Jr, can you lacquer over that type decal?

As far as making them, that would be great but I only have an inkjet printer and its not that good of a printer. I thing the laser printer probably would be better.

Dave

[jrfrond]

Yes, you can lacquer over it. Like any other decal, you must use a scant mist coat over the decal to "lock it in" first. This coat acts as a barrier for subsequent coats.

[David Schwab]

Yes, you can lacquer over it. Like any other decal, you must use a scant mist coat over the decal to "lock it in" first. This coat acts as a barrier for subsequent coats.

I've been wondering about these decals. How thin is it? Does it look good lacquered over?

[jrfrond]

Dave, these decals are surprisingly thin. Not as thin as a waterslide, but they CAN be lacquered over. Whereas a waterslide usually needs about 6 coats of nitro (leveling after the third coat) for complete coverage, a vinyl decal requires about 10, but they cannot be sprayed really wet.

Without lacquering, vinyl decals can eventually pull up at the edges and peel, but it takes years. They are a great low-cost alternative.

I have used decal paper before, and inkjet printer dyes, even Epson, which I consider the best and it's what I use, aren't opaque enough to be convincing in many cases. I have tried running it through 2x, but the printer is not accurate enough. Works in a pinch though. From what I understand, dye-sub printers are the way to go if you want GOOD decals. Of course, silk-screening is still the best process.

[David Schwab]

Thanks John.