Super Glue for Guitars

[big_teee]

I learned a lot on the conductive grounding paint.
Thought I would see what is everyones fav. when it comes to the Super glue varieties?
Most super glues work well, the biggest difference I've found is the bottle, tube or applicator. I am a Pickup Handwinder, and I use Super glue on a regular basis.
It has all kinds of little Apps you can use it for. I used to use crazy glue.
The only kind I've had any success with, as far as not getting hard and bad in the tube or bottle is Loctite Super glue in the clear Long neck bottle. I have a 1/2 oz. bottle in my shop where I rewind, and It's been there I know going on 6 mos. and it is still half full, and hasn't let me down yet. I know this is a trivial subject, but what do you guys use for gluing things in and around the guitar work bench or shop?
Rock Steady!

[Jazz P Bass]

I am a Gorilla Glue fan.
Super glue is always clogging up, even when the tip is wiped clean.
I found the gel types were a big advancement.
It goes where you put it.

[big_teee]

I am a Gorilla Glue fan.
Super glue is always clogging up, even when the tip is wiped clean.
I found the gel types were a big advancement.
It goes where you put it.

So which Gorilla glue do I need to check out, and is this a replacement for Super glue or what?
T

[Jazz P Bass]

Which one.
I don't know.
I guess it depends on what you are "glueing".
I thought we were talking super glue.
Link: Gorilla Glue - Gorilla Glue

[big_teee]

My bad!
I thought you were saying there was gorilla glue similar or a better substitute than super glue.
Me not being familiar with gorilla glue I apparently misunderstood.
So the Super glue, and gorilla glue, are different types of glues for different apps?
Am I reading this correct now?
Sorry,
Terry

[Jazz P Bass]

Sorry for the confusion
If you look at there link, they have a number of different glue types.
For different applications.
That is what was implied.
The Gorilla Super Glue is just that.
I find it nicer to use than "Super Glue".

[fyl]

Gorilla Glue is polyurethane-based wood glue, Super Glue is ethyl cyanoacrylate-based. Very different adhesives for very different applications.

[big_teee]

Gorilla Glue is polyurethane-based wood glue, Super Glue is ethyl cyanoacrylate-based. Very different adhesives for very different applications.

Jazz was referring to the Super Glue made by Gorilla.
So I don't know if their super glue is like other super glues, compound wise.
Like I said earlier, my issues have not been with the glue per say, more with the resealable container it comes in. The only one I've had good luck with being resealable is with loctite in the long neck bottle.

[Jazz P Bass]

Gorilla Glue is polyurethane-based wood glue, Super Glue is ethyl cyanoacrylate-based. Very different adhesives for very different applications.

This is turning into a "silly thread"

Did you not see the link to the Gorilla Glue web page.
They make different glues.
ONE of them is Wood Glue.
Another one is Super Glue.
And they manufacture an epoxy.

[big_teee]

Jazz is correct, we have beat this horse long enough. Next Victim

[Bruce Johnson]

Back to the original topic, the biggest frustration with any brand Super Glue is having the glue harden in the tip of the nozzle. The key thing is this: After you squirt some glue on the job, you need to stand the bottle or tube up with the nozzle vertical and the cap off. If there's any blob of glue on the tip of the nozzle, wipe it off quickly with a paper towel. Make sure that you can see that the hole in the tip is open to airflow. This allows the glue in the nozzle to run back down into the bottle or tube before it hardens. After 10-30 seconds, then put the lid on.

If you use the tubes, and you just snap the cap on and lay it flat on the bench, it's almost guaranteed that the next time you try to use it, the nozzle will be glued solid. For most of my general use I buy the 10-packs of the Duro brand at Home Depot. I made up a wooden block with bored holes, so I can drop the tubes in there to keep them standing up vertically. That helps a lot.

In general, the bottles are less likely to get clogged, but again, the important thing is that you must wipe off the tip, and make sure that the hole is open and the nozzle is drained before you put on the cap.

It's really more about technique than brand. I honestly haven't been able to tell much difference between brands of Super Glues, in terms of strength or use. I buy some at Home Depot and some at the local hobby shop.

[Tom Phillips]

Re: Jazz is correct and “next victim”
I looked at the Gorilla Glue web site and I think it is interesting that they say they added rubber particles to their "super glue" product. Sounds like an interesting variant on standard cyanoacrylate glues.

[Jazz P Bass]

I wipe off the tip as posted.
I have yet to have a Gorilla Glue SG clog the way some do.
I think they even say that on there web page.
Cheers.

[jrfrond]

Why is this a "silly" topic? Being well-versed in CA adhesives, I find that this should be a useful topic for many people who aren't familiar with them. Accumulation of knowledge is never "silly".

There are very few real manufacturers of CA adhesives, so chances are Gorilla's stuff is just a private-label for them. Many "brands" are just repackaged, and the bulk of CA adhesives are made in the UK.

The rubber-bearing CA by Gorilla is nothing new, and in fact, I use a sh*tload of it for speaker reconing. The stuff I use is black, but that is just a cosmetic additive. It can be purchased as clear also. Rubber-bearing CA has better shear strength because it is not nearly as brittle as pure CA.

I purchase in bulk bottles, and fill smaller "user" bottles. I also order extra tips, because they WILL become clogged to the point where you can do nothing about it. We use a lot of CA here in the shop for all kinds of things, so this makes the most sense, and we also have a small cube refrigerator dedicated to storing it to extend the shelf life to three years.

Pro-grade CA comes in at least three grades, and the water-thin stuff is what you want for saturating coils etc. because it has very low surface tension and hence, excellent capillary action.

CA has multitudinous uses, and again, only the surface has been scratched here.

[big_teee]

Why is this a "silly" topic? Being well-versed in CA adhesives, I find that this should be a useful topic for many people who aren't familiar with them. Accumulation of knowledge is never "silly".

There are very few real manufacturers of CA adhesives, so chances are Gorilla's stuff is just a private-label for them. Many "brands" are just repackaged, and the bulk of CA adhesives are made in the UK.

The rubber-bearing CA by Gorilla is nothing new, and in fact, I use a sh*tload of it for speaker reconing. The stuff I use is black, but that is just a cosmetic additive. It can be purchased as clear also. Rubber-bearing CA has better shear strength because it is not nearly as brittle as pure CA.

I purchase in bulk bottles, and fill smaller "user" bottles. I also order extra tips, because they WILL become clogged to the point where you can do nothing about it. We use a lot of CA here in the shop for all kinds of things, so this makes the most sense, and we also have a small cube refrigerator dedicated to storing it to extend the shelf life to three years.

Pro-grade CA comes in at least three grades, and the water-thin stuff is what you want for saturating coils etc. because it has very low surface tension and hence, excellent capillary action.

CA has multitudinous uses, and again, only the surface has been scratched here.

So John:
Can you touch on the best places to buy these CA Products?
In Large and small amounts?
Do you keep the product you are using in the Frig, between uses, or just for prolonged storage?
You are correct I have learned a lot on this thread, Got some usefull info on preventing tip clogging from Bruce also.
I liked his idea of drilling a board to stand the tubes in, so the glue would drain back into the tube.
Later