Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Anyone have experience soldering shield plates at bottom of routings on '62 AVRI Jag?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Anyone have experience soldering shield plates at bottom of routings on '62 AVRI Jag?

    Greetings All,

    Anyone out there have direct experience rebuilding or refinishing '62 Reissue (AVRI) Jaguars? In particular, I'm looking for someone with personal experience soldering the network of ground connections to the various copper/bronze shield plates found in the bottom of each of the routings.

    Basically, I've got some concerns about the heat of soldering and its potential effects (via penetration through the wood) on new paint.

    Anybody?

    Thank you.
    "I am not the same having seen the moon rise on the other side of the world."

    Maryanne Radmacher Hershey

  • #2
    They are brass plates. Use a hot iron and it will just take a second or so. Wont hurt the paint at all.
    It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. Albert Einstein


    http://coneyislandguitars.com
    www.soundcloud.com/davidravenmoon

    Comment


    • #3
      Many thanks to you, David.

      Actually, the plates I'm using on this Jag are custom (home) made from fairly hefty (24-ga.) "Jewelers Bronze". Perhaps that's my problem? Or maybe bronze simply requires more heat than copper in order to get adequate dissipation or penetration of the solder???

      As for the heat of soldering, I'm using an iron capable of 900 degrees F maximum, set to about 1/2 of that value (450-500 degrees), and its melting the solder fairly quickly, but the entire shield plate is still getting quite hot before the solder itself fully flows. Moreover, when I turn up the heat any any hotter, the solder flows like water (i.e., it gets super thin and spreads out too far). I'm also beginning to think that an alternate tip might help - the one I currently have seems a bit too sharp (almost pencil-like).
      "I am not the same having seen the moon rise on the other side of the world."

      Maryanne Radmacher Hershey

      Comment


      • #4
        Use a heat sink on the ohter side of the plate and more importantly use flux, and only in the area whre you want the solder to flow

        If the entire plate is getting hot enough eventually you are fine with the tip,

        a Large brass drift works great as a sink.

        Comment

        Working...
        X