HELP strat bridge problem

[FatGaz]

Hi all,

I've go an 80s Squire strat that I've decided to upgrade with new pickups. It's a SQ Jap strat with a big headstock and i think it's got a 7.5" radius neck. since I'm stripping the guitar down I want to sort everything out.

BUT I've also got a prpoblem with the high E string (smallest) being too close to the edge of the fretboard so that I can some times end up with the string sliding off the fretboard and neck !

I'm not sure what the problem might be.

What do people think of these theories :

the frets are too worn / rounded so it's too easy for the string to slide off the neck ?

The neck is no longer straight onto the body.

The trem/bridge isn't in the right place and is too far towards one side of the neck.

I also have problems with the saddle on that string not sitting centrally and wanting to pull right towards the edge of the neck. this might be due to wear on the bridge under the saddle and the old screws.

I'm rather lost with all of this.

As far as i can tell with the strings off and the bridge screws slack, the central line of the neck (cutting the dots in half) is not directly in line with the centre of the bridge.

SO WHAT SHOULD I DO ?

I'm a bit scared of trying to take the neck off - It seems to be firmly bolted on.

Should I try and replace the trem block with a hardtail bridge and try to get it central ? I thought that this might also let me replace the saddles etc. at the same time.

do i need to be carefull with the string spacing ? should i try to get as narrow a spacing as possible ?

I assume I can't put the traditional hardtail fender bridge on becasue of the trem hole ? I have seen bridges that have extra wide fixing holes:



but will I have problems with the 'through body ' stringing ?

should i just try toget a cheap replacment vintage trem ?

any advice at all is much appreciated, as I know next to nothing !

[David Schwab]

BUT I've also got a prpoblem with the high E string (smallest) being too close to the edge of the fretboard so that I can some times end up with the string sliding off the fretboard and neck !

I'm not sure what the problem might be.
...

The neck is no longer straight onto the body.

That's it. This is quite common.

I'm a bit scared of trying to take the neck off - It seems to be firmly bolted on.

Try this. Hold the guitar in your lap as if you were playing it. Now grab the neck at the first fret with your left hand, while holding the body with your right arm over it (you can grab the upper "horn" of the body) and give the neck a push sideways in the direction of the floor.

You'd be surprised how much play there is in the neck pocket! Then when you have it straight, tighten the neck screws, which may be loose anyway.

If that doesn't do the trick, loosen the neck screws a couple of turns and try it again.

Don't be afraid to remove the neck... they come right off, and you usually have to remove them when setting up the guitar (to shim the neck), and for doing fret work.

Should I try and replace the trem block with a hardtail bridge and try to get it central ? I thought that this might also let me replace the saddles etc. at the same time.

I wouldn't bother with replacing the bridge. You just need to pull the neck into alignment.

I've done this many times in the past. There's nothing to worry about.

[Jag]

Actually, if the high E string is falling off, I think he'd want to be pulling the neck up rather than pushing down. That will bring the high E farther "inside" the neck. Pushing the neck in the direction of the floor will send the high E farther to the "outside" of the neck making the problem worse.

Jag

[David Schwab]

Actually, if the high E string is falling off, I think he'd want to be pulling the neck up rather than pushing down. That will bring the high E farther "inside" the neck. Pushing the neck in the direction of the floor will send the high E farther to the "outside" of the neck making the problem worse.

Jag

You are absolutely right! See what happens after a long weekend!

I was going to say pull, but it didn't seem right.

[FatGaz]

thanks, some other questions !

Hi,

OK, it seems that the thing to do is play with those neck bolts. I've never fiddled with the neck before so I'll go easy.

I've still may have problems with some of the saddles on the bridge. the suface of the trem block on to which the saddles sit is scratched and marked so it interfers with where the saddles sit and how straight they are. (the chrome plating may be scrached)

It's only a cheap strat, so I'm not sure if a cheap after-market trem block will be any worse than what's all ready there.

I don't use the trem anyway, I've always had it screwed flat. Should I put a wedge of wood between the trem block and the guitar body when I do this ?

I just need to decide what noisless pickups to get for it now !

cheers,

Gareth.

[David Schwab]

OK, it seems that the thing to do is play with those neck bolts. I've never fiddled with the neck before so I'll go easy.

You can't hurt anything by taking the neck off. Just remember to losen the strings first!

It's only a cheap strat, so I'm not sure if a cheap after-market trem block will be any worse than what's all ready there.

Just pick up a cheap vintage style bridge. It wont be any worse than the one you have.

Should I put a wedge of wood between the trem block and the guitar body when I do this ?

That's a common thing to do. I don't use my vibrato much on mine, but I leave it floating, with no arm, and sometimes I like to press my hand on it when sustaining a chord.

[Joe6v6]

When you move the neck back & forth remember you are using the strings as a straight edge, you only have to slightly loosen the neck screws to be able to move the neck, then just go by your eye & get an even reveal on both E strings. A lot of 70's strats (big headstocks) had necks that were much narrower at the nut, when I say much I mean a 1/16th to an 1/8th of an inch but it makes a big diffrence in string spacing at the nut. I recently sold a 74 strat that I never got used to because of the same problem with the high E string so close to the edge of the neck.
Replacing your bridge because of the scratches from the saddle screws is a matter of if you want to spend the money or not. your right cheaper bridges are made out of softer metal and the will scratch & get notches in them also, some of the better bridges ( Callaham ) are stainless steel & will never have that problem, but they are much more expensive. Sanding or fileing the one you have may suffice for the time being.
A block of wood between the trem block & the body is a good idea if you never intend to use your trem. keep in mind it takes some time & effort to get a good fit, ive used oak on several that ive done & I drilled a hole in the side that faces the cover plate to thread a screw in so I could pull it out when I needed to.
I myself never had much luck finding a noiseless strat pickup that I liked, of course this is subjective, what I like you may not. I like Dimarizo fast tracks for a hummbucking strat pickup.
Let us know how it works out.
JOE

[FatGaz]

trem blocks & wood blocks

Hi all,

I've discovered that the bridge is a 'wide' one, (is this the standard for 70 strat's ?) and that you seem to be able to get a narrower string spacing. not sure if it would be a good idea or not to replace the trem with a narrower one ?

also the trem block i've got is a single (cast, I think) piece, and does not have and screws from the bridge plate down into the trem block. I assume that wedging a wood block will do two things, it will help the springs to pull the bridge plate down onto the top of the guitar, but also it will probably attach the bottom of the trem block mechanically to the guitar body, where it normally is only connected via the springs.


I've decided to rewire the guitar and get some new pots to go with the new pickups (whatever they might be !) I think I'll keep the 'blue guitar sup'r strat switch.

I've tried the deluxe USA strat with the SCN noisless PUPs on saturday and it was OK, except that the 'out-of phase' sounds were a little different it seemed to me. but maybe not as quite as dynamic and twangy as single coils. Still quite nice. teh owner of the shop said he still preferred single coils.

in the UK, PUPs are very expensive from US manufacturers - 180 quid for the SCNs and fender europe seem to have little stock; kinmans are 200 quid in comparison. seymore duncan are also expensive.

maybe I should order direct form the US?

anyhow thanks for the help all

Gareth.

[Steve A.]

With the vintage style bridge that mounts to the body with 6 screws, I can usually tighten down the trem springs to pull the trem block against the wood in the cavity.

For blocking a modern style "floating" bridge made by Wilkerson, I had to make up a block to keep the bridge parallel to the body (had I just cranked the springs down it would have tilted the bridge back).

Steve Ahola

P.S. Some of the cheap import guitars use non-standard hardware, so replacement parts don't always drop in easily. They might look the same but when you get out your micrometer you can see that they are different. In many cases you can get around that by making some modifications, but caveat emptor.

[dumbassbob]

Strat Bridge Problems

Hi Have you also checked your nut?With all the abuse to your guitar,that might need to be replaced.I am left handed,and had that problem,useing right hand Strats.Just put the high E string in a fraction in from where it is.Also you can push the saddle over a little bit too.Just loosen the string and push it over.Doing the neck screws and the bridge saddles and nut should put it from slipping off. BOL

[mezarkabul]

probably just normal...

newer bridge designs are narrower than vintage ones for a reason...