dressing fret protusion on refret

[Chuck H]

Well I recieved my Yamaha SBG1300ts (from the trem Q thread) and the neck is very slightly warped Slight hump center scale on the bass side. I've never done a full refret but I know that the only way to fix this is to pull the frets, plane the fingerboard and refret. And I have confidence I can do it. But... I know that most Japanese guitars were finished with two component polyester or urethane. After the trimming, smoothing/beveling the fret edges and protusions, what's the best way to touch up this sort of finish. Assuming I don't own the spray equipement for these finishes. Which I don't. And I don't know that these finishes can be touched up or blended since I've never tried.

[Chuck H]

Well now...

Obviously I'm a novice at this particular application. It seems everyone else here is too. With extensive searching I find A LOT of how to file and finish protrusions. But NOTHING on how to fix damage to the fingerboard (fretboard) finish that is unavoidable. I guess a thin rub of super glue or shellac and the buffing wheel is the answer. But this isn't sufficient for a polyester or urethane finish. Still.. It seems like the way this is handled is a well kept secret either because it's a compromise (like shellac or super glue) or because it's something that most repair shops wish to keep secret!?!

I've decided to under cut the tang tediously. One fret at a time. Then cut the slots with a forward stroke at each fretboard edge for a clean slot. Then fill the slot gap with the ebony dust from the finger board planing mixed with something else (?) to fill the slot edges. Then I may be able to buff the edge without ever needing to file against it. Since I can file at a slight bevel for the actual fret edge.

I figured I'd share my solution since no one seems to have a clue.

[Steve Conner]

What is the problem exactly? I've had guitars where the finish flaked off in sizeable lumps around the edges of the fingerboard and I never noticed for years.

[Chuck H]

Yeah, but I just got this one and I'd rather not damage it repairing it. Plus, it's not a thin lacquer coat or a modern low luster finish. It's thick plastic gloss.

Sorry to be crabby.

[rjb]

...I find A LOT of how to file and finish protrusions. But NOTHING on how to fix damage to the fingerboard (fretboard) finish that is unavoidable.

I'm no expert, but I think the trick is to avoid the "unavoidable" finish damage with masking and file guards (thin slotted metal sheet).

[JoeM]

Chuck,

How severe is the neck warp? Many years ago one of my Gibsons had a problem with buzzing on a particular fret. I brought it to the repairman at the music store I was working at, and I guess he just did some dressing or something. Later had it refretted by John Carruthers, and the same problem occured. When I took it back Carruthers told me the slight bump happened under tension, so he put some kind of block at the nut to get the strings up so he could have the stings under tension, and he just barely ran a file on the frets that were high and then recrowned them. Worked perfectly.

[Chuck H]

That's really smart. Simulating string tension, to me, has always seemed to miss the mark in some way. At least the various ways that it's done. I don't know if this is the case with my problem but I'll investigate by examining slack, under tension and during truss rod adjustments. I should be able to tell. I'm no luthier but I've done a butt load of fret dressing and adjustment.

rjb, I'm SUPER particular. Masking tape and thin shields and such would leave too much reveal for me I'm certain. I'd apologize for being snootie about it, but I know I'm not the only one. The approach I outlined above should work fine... I think. I can use the dust from the sanding I do with the radius block and mix it with a hard clear glue. Use that to fill the slot edges. I may need to put a dot of super glue on each one for extra measure. Then I can lightly sand it smooth and re polish without burning through the finish... I think. It's extra careful work that I would never expect someone trying to make a profit to do. But I'll do it for my own axe of course.

It's not really bad. I could probably even correct it by using a radiused block for a fret level. But it's going to need to be fixed proper eventually. If I find that fret work isn't sufficient then eventually comes very soon.

Thanks for the replies.

[olddawg]

Truthfully Chuck....If it were me I would sell it and move on if you are that picky. These guitars for some reason are fetching $600 to 1000 or more nowadays. The next person might not even notice or even care. Its been my experience that once you have a structural problem like that it is difficult to ever get it right. Especially when you start monkeying with fret board thickness, modiifying frets and such. Save the money and wait for a good one to come along.

[Steve Conner]

Reality check... Does the warp affect playability?

[Chuck H]

The warp is mild. When the guitar is set up properly there is excessive rattle on the 6th and 5th srtings (in order of severity) from frets five through nine and also on the 1st and 2nd string from frets fourteen through twenty one. The 1st string also dives a little in this area when bending.

The guitar is twenty eight years old. The neck is a three piece laminate and warps on these guitars are very rare. Heating and bending won't work because the warp isn't symmetrical. But it IS done moving. Planing the board to the correct profile and radius is a permanent fix.

The reason these guitars are a little collectible is that they are very nice guitars and they are rare. They were made for less than a year. And in 1984 there weren't many guitars with that stealth/gothic look. They're popular with modern metal players and most often they don't even replace the pickups with EMG's since the stock pickups are coveted.

The reason I won't sell the guitar to someone who won't even notice is that it would be unscrupulous. I won't sell it as warped because I'll take too much of a hit. That combined with the fact that finding one for sale is rare. I got this one for US $365 because of unusual Ebay activity. Perhaps one a year on Ebay is typical. But at this time, one had just been sold and then two more popped up the following week. That seemed to drive the price down. The guitar was described as "neck is straight and true". The seller hasn't been responsive. Since I very much want one these guitars, it's rare to find one for sale, they're not getting cheaper and this one is permanently fixable, I think I'll keep it.

[David Schwab]

I touch up the finish with super glue. You can sand it and buff it out as if it were lacquer.

Regarding simulating string tension:

STEWMAC.COM : Erlewine Neck Jig

They used to sell plans for it, but they are easy enough to build even without.

Have you tried leveling the frets without refretting it?

[Chuck H]

Thanks David. I mentioned above that I may be able to correct the problem at the frets. But mild COPD like thinking prohibits resting on that. I'll see how it goes. Maybe if the frets work out I'll just play it until it needs a refret.

I did read about the super glue and it's a part of my plan outlined above. Which, FWIW, has become moot. I've decided that I can't stand the finish on the back of the neck. To sticky. I'm going to remove it. I would like to put something black back on to keep the all black look. I've looked into some low friction graphite coatings. Could be really cool.

Thanks for the jig reference. I've done a simple block jig for necks before. This looks better.