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  • Fill the Gaps... :)

    Hi, im new at the forum and i feel like i have so many things to learn... I own a YAMAHA RGX-A2 and i decided to replace my stiff rounded pickup selector with a toggle switch. I have already installed it but im gonna need some help with the wiring. Check my diagram and thank you very much for your help.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    We would need to know more details about your switch. I don't think it's even up to the task. Switches are very widely variable in operation. You've jumped ahead of yourself I think. Please provide a schematic style diagram of the original switch. We will also need one for the new switch you intended to replace it with.
    "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

    "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

    "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
      We would need to know more details about your switch. I don't think it's even up to the task. Switches are very widely variable in operation. You've jumped ahead of yourself I think. Please provide a schematic style diagram of the original switch. We will also need one for the new switch you intended to replace it with.
      Does this help?
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #4
        Oh, I see what happened. The pickup selector LEDs won't work any more because your new switch doesn't have enough poles for them.
        "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Steve Conner View Post
          Oh, I see what happened. The pickup selector LEDs won't work any more because your new switch doesn't have enough poles for them.
          Any way to make the guitar playable again? skip the problem with some kind of mod? whats the other wiring connections by leaving the leds off? thnx in advance.

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, if you ignore all the wires associated with the LEDs and battery, there are only three wires left with question marks on them:

            The two wires coming from the pickups: these go to the two outer terminals of your switch. If the neck and bridge positions end up the wrong way round for you, swap these two wires over or spin the switch round 180 degrees in its mounting hole.

            The wire going to the bottom lug on the volume pot: this goes to the middle terminal of your switch.

            The wire soldered to the casing of the volume pot is a ground wire: you might want to solder that to the tab on the metal casing of your switch, otherwise you could get hum when you touch the toggle.
            "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

            Comment


            • #7
              +1
              And add... You should be able o get a DP3T on-on-on toggle on the same or smaller package and then you can hook up your leds as well.
              "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

              "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

              "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A

              Comment


              • #8
                Thank u very much for your help both of you. One last question, is there a way to connect the led wires not to work seperated depending of which pickup i use (green light neck - blue light bridge - both lights both pickups) just both lights whatever pickup i use when i put the jack into the guitars input at my existing 4-pole toggle switch? thnx
                (p.s.) if u could fill my diagram that would help a lot.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Even if I could be bothered downloading the diagram and scrawling on it, it doesn't give enough information to figure out the LED wiring. There should have been 6 wires to the old switch: the 3 we discussed already that carry the audio signals, plus another 3 that operate the LEDs. Identify this second set of 3 wires and connect them all together, it should do what you want.
                  "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Steve Conner View Post
                    Even if I could be bothered downloading the diagram and scrawling on it, it doesn't give enough information to figure out the LED wiring. There should have been 6 wires to the old switch: the 3 we discussed already that carry the audio signals, plus another 3 that operate the LEDs. Identify this second set of 3 wires and connect them all together, it should do what you want.
                    Thank you for your help and your time... ill try that. Or ill buy one of these as far as i understand...
                    Lot 1 - 3 Way Toggle Switch On On On DP3T For Guitar / Amp, 6pins | eBay

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      That one will work. Something else to keep in mind is that the toggle switches your working with are not the standard type of three way toggle found on Les Pauls and such. The motion torque is much higher on your switches than a standard type of guitar toggle. Since current and voltage capacity aren't a concearn in a guitar circuit I would probably go with a mini toggle that has a 'not too short' lever. Like this one: M2024ES1G01-RO NKK Switches | Mouser

                      Something else that occurs to me is that the typical guitar switch is a "make before break" switch. This reduces switching noise. The rotory switch your replacing is probably a "make before break". Most standard toggles, like the ones your going to use and the one I linked, will be "break before make". Meaning that the circuit will fault open as the switch is operated. Possibly causing an audible POP. Especially if high gain is employed.

                      Lot's of considerations. That's why I said that tearing down your electronics without proper knowledge about such things was getting ahead of yourself.

                      Do me and yourself a favor... Don't go into any amplifiers. No sense dying like a death row inmate just because you didn't look both ways before crossing the street. If you get my meaning.

                      Stay safe and I hope it works out. If not you can always put the rotory switch back in and just call it wasted time that you might have avoided with a little more research before proceding.
                      "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                      "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                      "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
                        That one will work. Something else to keep in mind is that the toggle switches your working with are not the standard type of three way toggle found on Les Pauls and such. The motion torque is much higher on your switches than a standard type of guitar toggle. Since current and voltage capacity aren't a concearn in a guitar circuit I would probably go with a mini toggle that has a 'not too short' lever. Like this one: M2024ES1G01-RO NKK Switches | Mouser

                        Something else that occurs to me is that the typical guitar switch is a "make before break" switch. This reduces switching noise. The rotory switch your replacing is probably a "make before break". Most standard toggles, like the ones your going to use and the one I linked, will be "break before make". Meaning that the circuit will fault open as the switch is operated. Possibly causing an audible POP. Especially if high gain is employed.

                        Lot's of considerations. That's why I said that tearing down your electronics without proper knowledge about such things was getting ahead of yourself.

                        Do me and yourself a favor... Don't go into any amplifiers. No sense dying like a death row inmate just because you didn't look both ways before crossing the street. If you get my meaning.

                        Stay safe and I hope it works out. If not you can always put the rotory switch back in and just call it wasted time that you might have avoided with a little more research before proceding.
                        I thank you so much for your advices, the fact is that i installed everything and tested to my amp a couple of hours ago... everything seem to work fine, no buzz, correct pickup selecting, no weird noises between pickup changes just not led light changes, both leds work when i plug in my jack into the input.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                          "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                          "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hello guys thank you for an interesting thread. I also own an RGX A2 and the pickup selector has failed (jammed). I would like to replace it with the DP 3T toggle suggested although I'm not confident how the LEDS' wiring and battery wire should be soldered to the switch i.e which poles should I use? I've got a schematic of the A2's wiring diagram from the service manual and could insert this as an image if necessary.

                            Sorry to be a nuisance but I wondered if anyone could help as I's like to repair this guitar

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