grooved frets salvagability

[hewo]

1. how do you make the decision whether to dress grooves or refret?
2. is decision based upon existing height?
3. furthermore, how do you decide whether to replace only isolated worn frets with intention of circumventing unnecessary milling of the other ungrooved frets?
4. do you make a comparison between the lowest height (severe groove) and the highest (not grooved), say 67% is the decision point?

[hewo]

1. i purchased the package of tools for eightyfive from china
2. includes trued flat leveler eight inch rectangular hollowed steel beam with narrow sides trued
3. includes diamond 300 dual sided offset crowning file
4. includes two masks narrow and wide
5. includes silicon carbide wetsand papers adhesive backed to install onto leveler
6. i was advised to incur the expense of diamond crowner because it abrades bi-directionally during forward/reverse strokes
7. is 300 surface finish adequate upon completion? or must mirror finishing be performed (wear resist affected?)
8. fabricated neck cradle (brace) using polyurethane spray foam in a suitable length cardboard box with the detached peavey raptor series tk neck immersed into the liquidous froth that hardens very hard but a mold release (membrane film) is necessary to remove neck out of the cradle once foam hardens ultra hard
9. i understand the truss must be neutrality (for leveling operations) and that is the basis for such a rigid conforming contacting cradle to avoid flex error introduction from the acting forces during strokes
10. there is a problem with creep of the top loaded bridge piece because i measured disturbing full lengths from treble nut zero and from bass nut zero to respective outboard bridgepiece backstop lip - the bass side length has compressed indicating that the three #6x5/8 length woodscrews that anchor the bridgepiece to body soft alder have crept under compressive pull toward nut - these screwholes must be maple epoxy adhesive plugged and precision pilot holes repositioned correctly to recover intonation capacity. question now is how much extension length is prudent for correcting intonation capacity? is the rule of thumb to assign saddles midposition within intonation capacity, then append an additional extension length of treble 1/16 and bass 3/16 ? this will skew the bridgepiece (cant) and i do not know for certain whether this skew (canting) will create lateral forces on each saddle thus pulling saddles toward treble direction. simplistically, is it advantageous for the strings, saddles, and bridgepiece to all be colinear alignment? or is the skewed bridgepiece alignment advantageous? the saddles slide laterally on slippery chrome floor because their individual setscrews contacting the floor have no traction (bite friction). the outboard saddles floor has machined tracks to combat against lateral slippage but unfortunately the dual tracks per outboard saddle are wide enough allowing lateral slip. even with the bridge colinear to neck (skew absent) slippage still occurs, likely to relaxed forces from taro patch open G five string configuration. the three and three tuners exacerbate tension relax owing to reduced lengths that otherwise would not be present in a six inline. i did try pointed setscrews (conical tipped) but aborted this because the copper (soft) underlayer of the chroming invited pit formation from higher pressure of the point tip. i also purchased another topload bridge individual saddles but have not installed it because i would have to mount the bridge pup independent of the new bridge. i did it before and it is very tedious work hard mounting an unadjustable pup in the cavity (graphite composite skewer struts embedded in cavity precisely for unadjustable positioning).

[Steve Conner]

I'd wait till it gets almost unplayable from fret buzz and then pay a luthier to fix it.

[hewo]

thank you steve connor, frugality

1. quoted 450 luthier
2. than quoted 200 Christian luthier
3. overhaul quote fret replace where required necessary and dress and instrument setup
4. but this is unaffordable so i must risk diy myself
5. i just found out the crowner is 2.8mm while actual measured fret is 2.4mm; and mask will exacerbate interception contacting abrasion if contact is even achieveable post leveling ops
6. so there are risks and workarounds by discovery to entail with
7. the depth of expertise luthier is another risk
8. both luthiers immediately attempted unrealized uptuning taro patch open g fivestring during examination to which i countered successfully
9. neither realized the chrome bridge creep owing to soft poplar lumber yielding wood screwholes (measurement obvious)
10. neither realized offense adjusting saddles strobe engaged under live tension until i warned all intonation/azimuth adjust must be performed zero tension on involved string averting extreme pressure wear and consequences of. both conferred my explain of the significance esp to the bite between involved members at the breakover. one member is the underside of the involved string. here intended metal properties (elasticity, yield, fatigue, hardening, wrap) will compromise owing to the force entrain during live tension adjust. i explained homogeniety throughout of intended metal properties is critical lest in-homogenious vibrational consequences. bigger metal means bigger forces means bigger metallurgical structure changes means bigger vibrational consequences. using strobe is okay but smarter to initially ballpark adjust and pad compensation under zero string tension using physical measurement adjust. this brings (intonation/azimuth) adjust close to home which afterwards can be superfine adjust oscilliscope freeze and harmonic matching on nineteenth (way up there). the susceptibility into error is mild with only one zero'd string tension at a time owing to partially slacked neck tension from one string at a time. it is also dependent upon how structurally rigid (flexture) the guitar structure is, and, string big'ness (bigger metal bigger forces).

I'd wait till it gets almost unplayable from fret buzz and then pay a luthier to fix it.

[Steve Conner]

I think I could easily do $400 worth of damage to a guitar by attempting to dress the frets.

[hewo]

thank you steve connor
1. wow! 400 damage is five fold the bluebook
2. it is hard to find another tk style neck replacement out in the internet
3. and using a standard six inline tuner replacement neck will change a lot of things (esp tensions)
4. there are replacements necks w/ new frets having three and three tuners but risk would be fitup socket alignment, some 24 frets same scale length
5. i will proceed carefully diy, i suspect what will happen is milling minimum for lower register frets will necessitate forfeiture of upper register fret height (longevity sacrificed, height loss)

[hewo]

got leveling completed very good!
have not started crowning.
trying to source stick adhesive like that used on scotch magic transparent tape.
this adhesive is harmless.
it is for ensuring mask does not disengage from radiused fingerboard during crowning ops.
worst case would be to settle on thin membrane doublestick tape though this kind has a substrate onto which adhesive is coated upon.
it is far superior to have the naked adhesive without any substrate.
i am so rejoiced of the completion successful leveling ops - the neck is neutrally straight and the ruler contacts each fret spectacularly.
upon truss restore and string loading buckling, i just pray this leveling will not elicit a compound twist and or "S" buckling, as indicated in the literature of compensatory fret dressing (live loads)