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fender bridge ouch!

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  • #16
    Check the Shimming, it may need more or less shims.
    It may have been shimmed, and may need some removed.
    When I shim a guitar not only trying to get a nice action, I look at screw length.
    Or you can buy screws.
    You can hone the tops of the screws if they are sharp or jagged.
    Last edited by big_teee; 05-09-2014, 03:22 PM.
    "If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill


    • #17
      Originally posted by olddawg View Post
      I would make 6 depth gauges out of tooth picks or something, then I would screw the Allen head screws flush and grind the screws to the proper length from the back with the bridge disassembled. Leave a little extra! But it back together and set it up. No one the wiser.
      if you do shorten the [new or old] [stainless or mild steel] screws, then this gets my vote. The screws are 'jigged up' and you can hold the bridge pieces better than the screws by themselves (and way better than holding them in vise-grips, which is how I'd probably do it before realizing the error of my ways). And if there's any 'mojo' to be had by thread contact between the screws and the bridge pieces, this will maximize that, too.
      If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
      If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
      We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
      MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey


      • #18
        Are we allowed to be real here?

        Old-school Fender hardware is stamped steel with nominal plating. Leo's favorite tools in his whole factory must have been the punch presses. Kachung! another cheap part... Kachung! another cheap part... Leo's genius was in being the Henry Ford of the electric guitar biz. He didn't invent it...whatever it was...he just figured out the cheapest way to make something that did the job pretty well.

        Have you ever seen an old Fender that didn't have totally rusted screws? And were more than likely so rusted that A) the screws wouldn't turn and B) had the Allen sockets stripped out or so full of rust that you couldn't get a wrench into them.

        So, yes, stainless steel least it's a start in the right direction.

        Whatever tonal qualities we ascribe to how Fenders were and are made, it's not because of some sort of master-mind intent in that direction. It's that Leo got lucky and we became adjusted to that sound as being iconic.

        And don't forget that Leo did not have Jimi Hendrix in mind when he designed the Strat!

        And Bill Monroe hated rock'n'roll, but Elvis was just fine...nothing like royalties on Blue Moon of Kentucky to make a mandolin player a happy good ol' boy!


        • #19
          Originally posted by olddawg View Post
          Maybe this is one time that SGM is correct, maybe not. He does seem to be a bit like a stopped clock most of the time. But I've personally never had much luck getting anything like screws for an instrument at a hardware store. The screws are usually nickel or chrome plated brass with unusual dimensions. Deranged or not, the method I suggested will resolve the problem quickly and effectively and will not look. "messed with" from the top.
          To my knowledge the allen screws in the standard Fender trem aren't plated brass like most hrdwr. Too small I think. I've seen surface rust on them many times and they strip/damage without revealing anything like plating. I think they're just plain screws. But I'll wager that the size or thread pattern isn't compatible with what you'll find at a hardware store. And while Fender may offer short screws, I'll bet they'll need to be ordered. And good luck getting a counter jockey to actually locate the part number and get the ball rolling.

          Do look at the hardware and music stores for shorter screws. If/when they can't be found:

          Buy the normal screws and cut them down. If your guitar isn't a collectible you could just cut down the screws you have too. Or:

          Shim the neck. This isn't my first go to because it can take a couple of tries to get it just right and requires additional adjustments. It also, obviously, adds neck tilt in relation to the guitar body and MAY change the feel of the instrument a tad. Usually for the better IMO, YMMV.
          "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

          "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

          "Being born on third base and thinking that you must have hit a triple is pure delusion!" Steve A


          • #20
            New Fender Original Stratocaster Bridge Height Screws | eBay

            Guitar Parts Resource:: Bridge Height & Intonation Screws

            Bridge Saddle Height Screws |

            Stainless Steel Bridge Saddle Height Adjustment Set Screws For Fender Stratocaster

            Music stores might have them, the last link says 4-40 screws, if that's true many hardware stores should carry set screws that size cheaper than you can get them online.
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            • #21
              Originally posted by Mick Bailey View Post
              They are viable fixes, but shimming the neck to me isn't fixing the problem. The problem is with sharp screws projecting - so fix the screws.
              Sure it is, because the saddles will be higher and the ends of the set screws won't be sticking out.

              But I would go with new shorter screws. But it also sounds like there isn't enough neck angle either.
              It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. Albert Einstein