Thinline tele Bigsby installation.

[Shawnobi]

Hi folks,
I have a richwood thinline tele with P90's which I would like to fit a B5 bigsby too. The guitar currently has a strat style bridge. Can anybody tell me the best way to modify this? I'm pretty technically minded so don't fear the challenge.

[tedmich]

its a mystery to me what the chamber pattern is inside that guitar, but you can have as little as 1/4"(or less!) of wood to anchor the screws in some radically chambered guitars. Its usually not a big deal as the screw is radially loaded. There is only one place to put the Bigsby, carefully remove the old bridge and position the new one and mark the screw locations, then I'd drill pilot holes of maybe 1/16" and measure the wood thickness (I use a 90 degree bent SS bicycle spoke) and plan the fasteners and pilot holes accordingly. If a few have full thickness wood they get the longer screws, the short holes get delicate treatment; larger threads, low torque, even 2 part epoxy if there's too little to secure the fasteners. Good luck!

[Shawnobi]

That's a great point about the chambers. The penny has dropped as to why archtops use B7's with the strap button screw!
Would I have to use a tune-o-matic style bridge? I've seen a picture of a hardtail strat that had a B5 and retained the hardtail bridge. But I couldn't see if it had been modified in any way. I've heard of it being done with regular tele's but the back of the 'ashtray' needs to be ground away.

[rjb]

I've only ever installed an Epiphone "Bigsby style" tailpiece on an Epi Dot, but here's a link you may find helpful:
Adding Bigsby B5 to Tele Thinline // Bridge plate questions - Telecaster Guitar Forum

I assume that your main concern is how to route the strings through the tailpiece and bridge.
It looks like you'll have to slot the back of the bridge (but I'm not one to ask how to best do that).
(Note: With the B5 tailpiece, your string break angle from the bridge will be radically different- but I bet you've considered that.)

Regarding anchoring screws in thin wood:
You might be able to glue a block of backing wood from inside.
I've done that to mount strap buttons to the sides of acoustic guitars (above the heel, for better access to higher frets).
Of course, a round-holed acoustic provides much easier interior access than a thinline does!

Electronics content:
On some guitars (those with ungrounded bridges), you'll need to run a ground wire to the B5.
I overlooked this while installing a whammy on the Dot- which has a stopbar and tune-o-matic bridge.
Removed the stopbar and ran the strings over the tune-o-matic- not realizing that the stopbar (not the bridge) provides ground for the strings.
Then ran copper braid (outside the guitar) from a stopbar bushing to the whammy tailpiece. Looks funky, but hey, it's only an Epi Dot.
Since your tailpiece is (presumably) grounded, you shouldn't have this issue.

Edit: Oops, I see the OP replied while I was typing this.

[rjb]

Would I have to use a tune-o-matic style bridge?

Aren't tune-o-matics typically taller than Strat bridges? (I'm asking- don't know for sure).
If you can't get a tune-o-matic as low as the current bridge, you'll have to change the neck angle and pickup heights.

[Shawnobi]

Yeah the bridge is my main concern really. Just had a tap about on the tele and it feels solid where the bigsby would sit. My girlfriend plays a firebird with a B5 so I need to have a better look at that.
Edit:
Looks like some people have done it with Squier 51's

[rjb]

Looks like some people have done it with Squier 51's
[ATTACH=CONFIG]29408[/ATTACH]

Looks to me like the strings are routed through 6 holes drilled in the bridge.
Easier than slotting, and almost retains the original break angle.
D'oh.

But I wonder... does that setup introduce a problem with strings breaking or hanging up?

[John_H]

Looks to me like the strings are routed through 6 holes drilled in the bridge.
Easier than slotting, and almost retains the original break angle.
D'oh.

But I wonder... does that setup introduce a problem with strings breaking or hanging up?

Wow, I wouldn't advise doing that. There has to be a lot of friction between the saddle, and string hole that could cause tuning issues. A three saddle tele bridge could maybe be notched for clearance.

[Shawnobi]

Wow, I wouldn't advise doing that. There has to be a lot of friction between the saddle, and string hole that could cause tuning issues.

It looks like quite a kink doesn't it. Seems a few people have done that with those guitars though. I may sign up to the forum and find out long term experiences.

[tedmich]

I've stopped bad mouthing Bigsby's as they have their fans but there are many more functional alternatives on solidbodies. With hollowbodies they are sometimes the only option, but offer greatly decreased functionality vs. more modern vibrato bridge designs. IME Bigsby owner love the look and learn to avoid touching them.

[rjb]

...Bigsby's... With hollowbodies they are sometimes the only option, but offer greatly decreased functionality vs. more modern vibrato bridge designs...

Has anyone here tried one of these?
It's described as a "vintage sounds" vibrato bridge with improved design.
The hollowbody version requires no top mounting screws.
Xtrem Floating Tailpiece Vibrato- Chrome Finish

They also sell a flat top-mount version, and matching Tele-style roller bridge.
I suppose one could saw off the front of the Tele roller bridge to accommodate a P90.
Here's a pic of the top-mount.

[rjb]

Yeah the bridge is my main concern really.

You could try the Ry Cooder method:


Looks to me like the rosewood saddle from an archtop bridge.
Whatever works... works.

[dmartn149]

It looks like this could work for you. You'd just have to cut the pup mount off. and mod the back edge like this one
Fender Telecaster 1952 Reissue With Vibramate and Bigsby | www.12fret.com

Looks like you would want to shim the neck and raise the sadles too

[Shawnobi]

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I'm coming around to designing & making my own bridge.