Epiphone Les Paul Special 2 finish question

[John_H]

...At any rate it is just a piece of wood. How hard could it be ?

Good Luck. I hope it works out for you.

[Steve A.]

I am going to start taking off the color off with a finish sander and the Scotchbrite pads.

You probably already know this but for the benefit of everyone there are Scotchbrite pads that are coarser than the familiar green ones. I got a box of the brownish purple ones from a sheet metal shop many years ago which they used to remove scratches from stainless steel. I've been using them on frets but I don't how they would work on a guitar body.

Steve A.

[SpareRibs]

You probably already know this but for the benefit of everyone there are Scotchbrite pads that are coarser than the familiar green ones. I got a box of the brownish purple ones from a sheet metal shop many years ago which they used to remove scratches from stainless steel. I've been using them on frets but I don't how they would work on a guitar body.
Steve A.

Hello,
Yes Steve I am aware there are different grades or grits, however it is defined. I have a small pad sander that has triangular pads that are held on by Velcro. It has red pads. I bought it at Harbor Freight. There are more expensive brands of the same tool. However as for the applications I was not sure how practical it would be. I thought it would be helpful for the inner curves of the edges.
I will be starting out with the red pads as they are more abrasive than the green pads. With the hardness of the finish I can see how the green pads would be seen as an exercise in futility. I will be using a finish sander that has a pad measuring 3.5" x 7.5". That will help me to keep the sander on a level plane parallel with the body as a result I can remove the finish evenly and slowly.

[Steve A.]

Is that the oscillating multi-function tool that HF sells?

[SpareRibs]

Is that the oscillating multi-function tool that HF sells?

Hello,
It is just an orbital palm sander with a triangular pad, it is for tight areas. I will probably not be using it on this project as I will be removing all of the hardware for the process. I don't want to work around the bridge and tail piece inserts in the body so I will be removing them, that will enable me to work on the flat surface thereby eliminating any chance of gouging through the finish. I will use a larger finish sander to spread the working action over the largest amount of the body possible.

[Steve A.]

I don't want to work around the bridge and tail piece inserts in the body so I will be removing them, that will enable me to work on the flat surface thereby eliminating any chance of gouging through the finish

I made up an insert extractor using a bolt, a washer and a 3/4 inch PVC fitting, putting a small piece of Velcro loops on the side facing the guitar surface.

BTW I ran across a very information video on sunburst finish yesterday that I thought you might find useful. Note: the segment at the very end has the Benny Hill theme song which in actuality is Boot Randolph's hit from 1963 titled "Yakety Sax"- another cool song completely ruined by its association with an inane TV show or commercial.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e_JrN9_VTR8

[ric]

Thanks for posting the bushing puller idea, Steve. A simple low cost solution. No more worrying about wood lift around the bushing as it comes out. I'm adding that to the toolbox.

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
Thanks Steve, I knew about the washer and bolt being used to pull the inserts, the PVC for spacing is a really good idea I hadn't thought of that. Very good way to protect the wood, and ease your mind about gouges.
I also agree about the Yakety sax song being used in the sunburst video, I can't hear that song without that stupid show coming to mind either.

[David Schwab]

I don't take Fender Squire guitars selling for under $170 seriously, either. Bolt-on necks were an integral part of the strat and tele design; set necks were an integral part of the Les Paul design. Mixing and matching designs for musical instruments can be iffy...

Steve A.

No, bolt on necks was a way for Fender to make the guitars easier to build. It has very little to do with the design.

I've built fairly identical instruments with bolt on or set necks. They sound a little different, but not much. It's just a different way to attach the neck.

In the end, you can't tell when you are playing them.

Getting back to the original question; even if the black was sprayed over the brown, it's likely under a clear top coat. And it's probably polyester. So you won't be able to just remove some black. And the black is probably there to hide that it's a veneered top anyway.

[SpareRibs]

Hello,
Back in post 26 I stated that on the front of the guitar where the black is chipped I can see that the amber coat covers the whole guitar. If the black ends abruptly I can go some where and have some clear acrylic lacquer tinted brown to blend the two colors together. There are several paint company's in town, body shops, and even a custom motorcycle shop. All I am utilizing from the original guitar is the solid wood body, so it is no more of a big deal than using seasoned barn wood, a toilet seat, or aluminum. The wood just holds the parts in their proper position, and maintains the spacing between the parts.