wire a tele 4-way with phase reversal?

[faithonaslab]

I looked up some schematics to wire a tele with a 4-way switch and a push-pull to add a phase revesal feature. damned if i can't get it to work. i know the 4way is working when the PP is in one position but i get nothing with the PP in the other position. anybody got any diagrams or suggestions?

[David Schwab]

The phase reversal should come before the 4 way switch.

Here's a Tele with a push-pull phase switch:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support...tic=tele_phase

Here's the 4 way switch:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support...matic=tele_4ws

Wire the phase switch to the bridge pickup, before the 4 way switch. Just combine the phase switch from the first schematic with the 4 way switch in the second.

[BackwardsBoB]

It's worth it.

I put a set of Kinman Broadcasters in my Tele along with 4-way switching. I pretty much always run it with both pickups in series now. It's a blues monster! Not too good for chicken picken'. Keep the stock bridge pickup or get the Kinman Telecaster bridge pickup if that's a problem for you. I used the Fender 4-way switch.

You really need to sit down with a volt meter and get an understanding going with your 4-way switch. The phase switch is easy. just use a DPDT to swap the leads from one pickup. Of course, there's no place to put it. I suppose you could use a pull-pot.

Here's one schematic that matches the Fender switch, but might not match yours:

http://www.blueguitar.org/new/schem/_gtr/tele4way.jpg

Don't forget that your control plate is on backwards. If you don't turn it around, you'll look silly like everyone else. From the neck end, it should be volume, tone, 4-way switch. Get the Callaham compensated bridge pieces too. And his machined knobs. Install Schallers, and remove your string tree and put it safely in the storage compartment in your guitar case where it belongs. Replace the springs on your pickup mounts with surgical tubing, and add a hole and wood screw in the bridge plate between the neck pickup and the front edge of the plate to prevent howl. A bone nut would be nice. And oversized nickle-plated slotted screws. Shield everything, including the back of the pickguard. Might as well get the Kinmans too. Lovely.

[Steve A.]

...Don't forget that your control plate is on backwards. If you don't turn it around, you'll look silly like everyone else. From the neck end, it should be volume, tone, 4-way switch. Get the Callaham compensated bridge pieces too...

I've done that to most of my teles but there is one drawback: if you inadvertently hit the metal volume knob with your knuckles, it can draw blood!

With the traditional arrangement, you just bump the selector switch, which may knock it into a different position but it doesn't hurt as much...

On the plus side, I think you have more room for fancy wiring with the switch closer to the output jack.

Stew-Mac sells non-adjustable compensated saddles for those of us who can't afford Callaham prices...

Steve Ahola

[BackwardsBoB]

Try the Callaham knobs. If you whack one of those with your knuckles, you'll need to remember that skin grows back and chicks dig scars.

My problem was that I live very close to Guitar Showcase in San Jose. They have a huge collection of beautiful new American Strats and Teles, and a vintage collection that goes all the way to all your money. It was a real threat to my financial well-being.

I got one of those cheap Lite Ash Teles with a stripped truss rod used, dumped maybe $800 into it, and it came out great. It even sounds great clean. Now I can walk past the devil's temptations, and just laugh. Fortunately, I've managed to do it with the whole store. Except for those Super 400s. And the Benadettos. And the Alembics. And the Guilds.

[BAD$]

Tele 4 way switch with 2 H/Bs

Hi All,

I picked up a very nice Tele with a standard size H/B in the neck, and a mini H/B in the bridge- both work and sound great. I have used 4 way switches in some of my other single coiled teles to great effect- and want to use it on this guitar too.

I've tried to use the same wiring and 4 way switch on my H/Bing tele but without success. I've checked the wiring with the pickup makers. I have searched the net and Seymour Duncan website but the standard wiring just isn't working for me- the neck is always live. I have tried various different configurations and have resorted to swearing and soldering in vain....even alcohol...!!??

I would greatly appreciate any input/suggestions on how to wire the two H/B on a 4 way- with just one volume and one tone.

I just registered- if I'm in the wrong place please redirect me!!!

Thanks

BAD$

[onusx]

I've tried to use the same wiring and 4 way switch on my H/Bing tele but without success. I've checked the wiring with the pickup makers. I have searched the net and Seymour Duncan website but the standard wiring just isn't working for me- the neck is always live. I have tried various different configurations and have resorted to swearing and soldering in vain....even alcohol...!!??

i know this thread is years old so i'm sure the issue is long solved, but i just ran into the same thing. a customer brought me a pre-wired tele control plate and separate set of pickups for a parts guitar. not sure where he got the assembly, nice components... but after staring at it and double checking wiring for an hour, gradually backing up step by step to check connections, i found the problem(s):

in the four way wiring, you get the individual pickup options by opening certain connections-- for neck only, you send the bridge hot (wired to common on pole 1 of the switch) to an open tab, which opens the pickup/takes it out of circuit. for bridge only, you do the same thing, only you're lifting the neck pickup's ground connection.

long story short, this particular control plate didn't leave enough clearance for the final switch throw, so that open tab on the 2nd pole was just still contacting the next tab over, so the ground never got lifted.

if anyone else ever happens to run into this issue, try taking the switch off the plate and seeing if the problem goes away. on the switch i'm looking at, it definitely seems the last couple of tabs on that second pole are perilously close to each other/not enough clearance.