Killswitch (Latch) and volume on a push and pull pot?

[Charlie33]

Hi everyone,

I've recently got some push pull CTS pots and I've been struggling to make them work as I planned.

My plan is the following:

-Volume: pull to mute

-Tone 1: double capacitor (pull to swap caps)

-Tone 2: same as tone 1

I have wired the pots as indicated on this site: https://sixstringsupplies.co.uk/page...ull-pot-wiring, but the volume pot for example, works as a kill switch, but the volume doesn't turn down as normal when the kill switch is not engaged. Also, I'm not sure if the tone pots are working on both positions of the switch, how could I measure that?

This are the main anomalies, a part from that I'm using an aluminium plate to improve grounding and interference. Is it still necessary to ground the pots and switch with cables?

Thanks guys!

[Mick Bailey]

The kill switch wiring in the link shows this wired exclusively as a kill switch. To get the volume working as well, connect the yellow output wire to the outer lug of the potentiometer (opposite end to the ground), and then take the output from the centre lug of the pot. This will then combine volume and kill functions.

The best way to check for the switched capacitor operation is by ear. Otherwise you need a frequency generator and scope to see the effect. Depending on cap values, amp EQ and pickups, you may not hear a big change in sound. Maybe swap the 2nd switched cap for something extreme (or tack a large value across the existing one) to see if this shows if the switch is working correctly.

Grounding the pots with their own wiring is always a good idea. Relying on the pots always making good contact with a grounding plate eventually gives problems if either a nut comes lightly loose, or if over time the plate oxidises - aluminium can be particularly bad as the oxide is highly insulating.

[Charlie33]

Hey Mick! That's an incredible answer, with exactly all I needed to know to make things work over here. Unfortunately I found out that the volume pot was also a bit faulty, maybe because of overheating in the process of wiring or just because it came faulty. Anyway, I've ordered a new one for tomorrow, it's not a CTS, but I'll translate what you said onto this other one which should be the same mechanics.

Thanks a lot!