Solder ground

[rymac]

I have a stainless steel fixed bridge. I'm trying to solder the ground wire. I'm using a 30 watt Weller iron and I can't get the solder to stick to the bottom of the bridge. I did clean the surface?

[spud1950]

Your problem is more likely that you can't heat the bridge enough for the solder to adhere properly.Ground wires do not have to get soldered to the bridge.99.9% of the time,this is never done. There are ways to do this without soldering.Exactly what type of bridge are you using?This will determine the method of grounding it.For example,with a Telecaster or hardtail Strat type bridge,or any other similar bridge with a flat bottom base plate,you just strip some insulation off the wire and sandwich the bare end of the wire between the bottom of the bridge and the top of the body.When the bridge is screwed down,the pressure works to contact the ground wire to the bridge base.It works fine.No need to solder it to the bridge.

[rymac]

Should I go with 22 gauge solid or stranded wire??

[spud1950]

Either one.I used stranded because that's what I have laying around,but I've also seen solid used.I don't think it makes any difference.

[rymac]

Thanks for the help.

[Chadheckler1]

strip some insulation off the wire and sandwich the bare end of the wire between the bottom of the bridge and the top of the body.When the bridge is screwed down,the pressure works to contact the ground wire to the bridge base.It works fine.No need to solder it to the bridge.

I agree with this, and I always use the "Stranded" wire not solid (Could prob. use either), so that when you sandwich it between the bridge and the body it flattens out.

Although, if it is a tele bridge usually the ground can get to the bridge via the pickup screws...

[mpeg2]

Best to use the mechanical entrapment method. For most kinds of stainless steel, it doesn't really matter how hot your soldering iron is - solder simply doesn't stick to it (sort of like soldering aluminum). It's not quite this simple - but one of the reasons that Stainless Steel is "stainless" is that a thin Chromium oxide layer forms at the surface, which prevents corrosion (solder won't stick to it).

Rich

[jrfrond]

Yeah, forget about soldering to stainless.

About the only soldered ground used on any popular guitars is with Strat trem setups, where the ground wire is soldered to one of the spring claws. Otherwise, mechanical contact is the preferred method.

I use stranded wire for the ground and "fan-out" the strands so that there is better contact area and it doesn't act as a shim under the bridge.

[spud1950]

For most kinds of stainless steel, it doesn't really matter how hot your soldering iron is - solder simply doesn't stick to it (sort of like soldering aluminum).

Yeah, forget about soldering to stainless.

No problem soldering stainless if you get it up to the proper tempreture and use the right flux.I've worked in the metal fabrication trade and have soldered a lot of stainless.You must use an acid type flux on stainless.Solder will adhere just fine.If you try using rosin flux,it won't work.It has no effect on stainless.From the net:
"All grades of stainless steel can be soldered with lead-tin soft solder.
Recommended procedure for soldering:

1. The steel surfaces must be clean and free of oxidation.

2. A rough surface improves adherence of the solder, so roughening with grinding wheel, file or coarse abrasive paper is recommended.

3. Use a phosphoric acid based flux. Hydrochloric acid based fluxes require neutralising after soldering as any remnant traces will be highly corrosive to the steel. Hydrochloric acid based fluxes are not recommended for soldering of stainless steels.

4. Flux should be applied with a brush, to only the area being soldered.

5. A large, hot iron is recommended. Use the same temperature as for carbon steel, but a longer time will be required because of stainless steel's low thermal conductivity.

6. Any type of solder can be used, but at least 50% tin is recommended. Solder with 60-70% tin and 30-40% lead has a better colour match and greater strength."

[rymac]

Thanks for all the input.

Here's what I did for ground to the bridge.
I used some copper shielding tape and put it under the fixed bridge sticky side on the body. I cut the copper with a narrow strip on one end like a tail and laid that down in the hole for the ground wire. I then brought my ground wire up through the hole stopping short of the sticking out of the hole. I then soldered the wire to the copper tape in the hole. I think this helped the bridge lay flush to the body. Tested good with a meter.
I hope this makes sense.

rymac

[jrfrond]

It makes perfect sense.

While the SS soldering tutorial is excellent, it is really a high-tech fix for a low-tech problem.

[spud1950]

While the SS soldering tutorial is excellent, it is really a high-tech fix for a low-tech problem.

Agreed. I was only addressing the fact that stainless can be soldered,not that it is neccessary or practical to go through the hassle of soldering ground wires to bridges.

[David Schwab]

Thanks for all the input.

Here's what I did for ground to the bridge.
I used some copper shielding tape and put it under the fixed bridge sticky side on the body. I cut the copper with a narrow strip on one end like a tail and laid that down in the hole for the ground wire. I then brought my ground wire up through the hole stopping short of the sticking out of the hole. I then soldered the wire to the copper tape in the hole. I think this helped the bridge lay flush to the body. Tested good with a meter.
I hope this makes sense.

rymac

Usually you just run the wire up under the bridge (with the end stripped of course) and just screw the bridge down on top of it.

No need to go through such measures.

People get carried away with guitar grounding. Star grounding is another thing that serves no purpose in a guitar, yet you read all kinds of tutorials on the 'net about how it cures ground loops, something that can't happen in a guitar.