Hi Guys, I’m a newbie here - I’ve been reading posts from most of the pages (48 all in all).
A short presentation of me would be that I’m 54 years old; I’ve been playing since I was eleven. For a while there I thought I would be the new EC - which didn’t happen and I’m glad I did not try harder (but it did affect my grades in school a lot). I’m still playing in a band and love every minute of it.
I’ve played many of the “originals” and have friends that own guitars from the late 50: ies. I would say I know good tone.
I’m playing Gibson’s mostly and currently play a beautiful LP ’58 RI through a BF Deluxe Reverb or a Tweed Deluxe.
I’ve owned and played many designers PU:s (Lollar, Wolfe, Lundgren (a Swede), SD, DMZio, Gibsons, Tim White) but never really reached the same level of tonal satisfaction as I did with a pair of early T-tops that I sold many years ago #( (or maybe it's just age
I’ve read and learned a lot here. I liked Dave’s tone on Youtube a lot. So, I ordered a pair from him (haven’t got them yet though .
Many posts here concerns the magnet wire but Dave talks a lot about, and always returns to, the steel/iron content in the PU - and this is my question. I do not expect you guys to give away trade secrets but a short introduction to the subject would be nice.
What is soft steel? I believe that is the term Seth Lover used. What is the difference between iron and steel? Who uses 1022 steel and who uses 1018? What’s the tonal difference between those two? Is there any other kind of steel that has favourable tonal properties?
If I take the iron nails that I saved from my old house (built 1905) and put them in a PAF replica – would they sound good?
(One of the best post on this subject was http://music-electronics-forum.com/s...highlight=1022 But I’m still not much wiser after reading that).
Bjorn Larsson
Sweden
A short presentation of me would be that I’m 54 years old; I’ve been playing since I was eleven. For a while there I thought I would be the new EC - which didn’t happen and I’m glad I did not try harder (but it did affect my grades in school a lot). I’m still playing in a band and love every minute of it.
I’ve played many of the “originals” and have friends that own guitars from the late 50: ies. I would say I know good tone.
I’m playing Gibson’s mostly and currently play a beautiful LP ’58 RI through a BF Deluxe Reverb or a Tweed Deluxe.
I’ve owned and played many designers PU:s (Lollar, Wolfe, Lundgren (a Swede), SD, DMZio, Gibsons, Tim White) but never really reached the same level of tonal satisfaction as I did with a pair of early T-tops that I sold many years ago #( (or maybe it's just age
I’ve read and learned a lot here. I liked Dave’s tone on Youtube a lot. So, I ordered a pair from him (haven’t got them yet though .
Many posts here concerns the magnet wire but Dave talks a lot about, and always returns to, the steel/iron content in the PU - and this is my question. I do not expect you guys to give away trade secrets but a short introduction to the subject would be nice.
What is soft steel? I believe that is the term Seth Lover used. What is the difference between iron and steel? Who uses 1022 steel and who uses 1018? What’s the tonal difference between those two? Is there any other kind of steel that has favourable tonal properties?
If I take the iron nails that I saved from my old house (built 1905) and put them in a PAF replica – would they sound good?
(One of the best post on this subject was http://music-electronics-forum.com/s...highlight=1022 But I’m still not much wiser after reading that).
Bjorn Larsson
Sweden
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